[Jayce]

I think we have all seen this particular series of GE transistor radio over the years. I used to run into them all the time at resale shops, but had always heard that they used an odd-ball 4.5 volt battery, so avoided buying them. Now, after the past few days, I have three of them!

   

Left to right they are: Model P-807A in good shape, no cracks. The white one has no model tag, but seems to be a bit later than the first one due to smaller IFs and using the reed speaker. It HAD a prefect cabinet until I dropped it! My dad has gotten a bad habit of popping up out of nowhere and actually spooked me when I got home with the white radio today.   Probably should have carried the radio in separate from the pack of batteries. Now has a tiny crack on a bottom corner. The third radio is a late production P-807J that was found laying in the dirt in the garage at my late friend's place when we were cleaning up. Basically, kicked into a corner and forgotten about as he didn't like transistor radios. Has a crack on the top, light rust on the speaker, and the grill cloth was falling off when I found it.
After swapping over the modern nine volt batteries, all three of these radios still work and not bad for five transitor units. Only complaint I have is that since GE snapped the speakers right into the plastic cabinets, they do get a bit of a cabinet rattle no matter what. I have $20 each in first two, finding them the past few days. The P-807J was a freebie and was forgotten about for three years in a drawer until yesterday. Now, to clean them all up. Even got an old Mallory 9 volt with the white radio. Still has the Radio Shack price sticker on it. If I had known these simply used over-sized 9 volt batteries earlier, I would have had some super cheap ones years ago.

[David]

Try a little silicone caulk were speaker makes contact with the case let it set for a few days. You can use a razor blade to remove excess. Nice radios. David

[Jayce]

I might try that the next time I am in the radios to swap batteries. I noticed the earlier 'A' model doesn't tend to rattle the case like the later two with the reed speakers. One bad thing I've read about these radios is that they tend to be battery eaters. I've seen claims of only 30 hours on modern 9 volt batteries, even recapped. Guess there was a reason why GE used an expensive, chunky 9 volt in these! Oh, and one site even claimed the magnets can fall off the reed speakers, though both of mine seem good and strong. As far as batteries go, wonder how a high end lithium battery would do in these? I think I've seen 9 volt versions of those.

[David]

I have limited experience with transistor radios but do find a big difference in life of batteries. might look at rechargeable ones. Another option 7809 with a few caps and a 12 volt battery or a 12 volt power supply. Some transistor radios have a much longer battery life if you use headphones.

[35Z5]

Made me look. 

I have three of these as well... Chassis is different in each one...

Aqua .. P806A - 1959
White . P808E - 1961
Black .. P807J - 1963

Apparently GE upped the letter suffix with each version update, aqua version deleted early in series run...  Was also a green P809 for a couple years...  

Not mine but here's the P806A, one I have is missing center trim on dial scale otherwise VGC... My White 808E doesn't appear to have been used...

[Jayce]

Hmm, gonna have to keep an eye out for an Aqua one now as well. I agree about the battery life in early transistor radios. I think people were just happy to have batteries that lasted longer than in the tube portables to begin with. It seems Zenith really hit the nail on the head with their designs. The Royal 500 series not only used a dead common and relatively inexpensive battery (the AA), but they also seem to run a rather long time on a set. I'll have to see if anyone makes rechargeable 9 volt batteries anymore. I looked at the Lithium ones and at $10 a pop, no way!

[35Z5]

The schematic says current draw is 19-24ma, battery life 130-150 hours, that's for both A & B series... I'd guess a modern alkaline battery should come close to that...

My White P808 draws around 17ma and plays quite well, the other two are only drawing 6-8ma and are sorely lacking performance... None have been recapped and as I won't be playing them, likely never will be...

Here's the schematic for A series, apparently only version to use a conventional speaker, B has a pin speaker... 

BTW I've seen magnets on the pin speakers disintegrate, apparently acidic vapors from battery leakage destroys them...

[Jayce]

Thanks for the schematic! All three of mine play quite well and strong. In fact, they kind of impress me for five transistor radios that many feel were primitive compared to the Japanese offerings of the same time. None of mine show any signs of having leaky batteries in them and only the white one was found with the old, but still fully intact battery in it. Probably the reason why it and the P-807J still have working reed speakers.

[David]

One source for rechargeable batteries. David  http://www.all-battery.com/9vsizenimhrec...eries.aspx

[35Z5]

I suspect few six transistor radios performed any better than these five... About only difference were a pair of smaller output transistors in push/pull... As far as RF circuits, no doubt little if any difference...

[Arran]

If a transistor radio is running through batteries it may need some servicing, most transistor sets use a class B audio amp, which means it shouldn't draw much current without a signal, but if there are some leaky capacitors, or drifted bias resistors, that can change. More often then not the capacitors (the electrolytic ones) will go open circuit rather then leaky, but not always, and sometimes the transistors themselves can become leaky, but usually these sorts of things result in the radio performing poorly or not at all. New caps are cheap, so I don't think I would hesitate to recap a transistor radio to get it going again, or if I wanted to use it regularly.
Regards
Arran

[35Z5]

These use class A audio...

I was looking at my Aqua radio again and noticed screws in chassis were loose, ummm someone's been tromping around in here... Lifted it out and behold, the small coupling electrolytics were new but ones in P/S and audio orig, ummm... So I replaced C16 and walla it sprang to life... Also replaced C15 which made a small improvement... It's still only drawing 13.5ma but is far improved, mebby I'll check the audio output bias resistors...

Not stated on A version but B with pin speaker says current reading taken at minimum volume... Current drops slightly at higher volume on both my A & E versions... The J is still sick... 

I dunno if it's available but a battery holder for six AAA batteries would probably fit in the A version... With smaller chassis and mini components, the J has room for the Goodyear blimp inside, a long holder for AA batteries arranged 2X3 would likely fit with ease...

BTW I tried operation on 6v, performance is all but nonexistent...

[Jayce]

There is a subject on these on the 'other forum' that mentions using 6 AA batteries as well. The guy rigged a four battery case (which has the 9 volt style connector) to a two battery case that actually fit into the 'A' version of these radios. Sadly, the only picture they have is of the finished product in the radio! No pictures of how they rigged things up between the two battery cases.
As far as performance goes, I've never noticed anything better with a 6 transistor model either. I've has several of the RCA models from the same time as these GE units and the RCA's tend to be junk when you find them. Either they used an odd battery voltage, or the RCA models used two D cells, which you always find swollen up and exploded in examples around here. The acid usually eats the board! Of the few I've found that were taken care of, the boards are usually split in the same spot due to RCA cramming them into the case. Oddly, I've yet to stumble on a GE that bad. I've seen some with broken cases that are still fully intact inside.

[35Z5]

Fitting a double layered battery box for six AA into the A version is a piece of cake, if were necessary there's enough room to stack three deep... A piece of 1" foam glued into back would prevent box from shifting...

   

And you guys thought I was kiddin' about the blimp

   

[35Z5]

This thread has now cost me $15.15, saw this little honey on ebay for $5 & shipping, just had to have her...    

   

Truth is I saw it had the correct nut/screw/retainer holding dial scale and I felt my aqua P806A deserved better than a slot head screw... So she's sportin' a new jewel and the 807 is getting along with the screw...