Posts: 46
Threads: 15
Joined: Nov 2017
City: Pittsburgh, PA
JLooking forward to some advise from our experts. The 39-6 has two Electrolytic Capacitor cans marked as 25 and 26. Question on 25:the can reads yellow as 4mfd and can as 8mfd. I can see the 4 on the schematic but there is no 8. The can has been bypassed in a past repair. Can anyone explain what I am missing regarding the stamping on the can?
Thanks
Mark
Posts: 5
Threads: 1
Joined: Apr 2018
City: PALM BEACH GARDENS
State, Province, Country: FL
It is possible that the can is not the original and the values on the can and in it are the closest that the repair person could find. A little extra capacitance often will help this kind of circuit rather rthan hurt it, as long as you don't go too far.
Posts: 46
Threads: 15
Joined: Nov 2017
City: Pittsburgh, PA
That was my original thought, but when I checked my sheets from Chuck Swark, the can was original. I can trace where they belong underneath the chassis but this was not matched correctly in previous repairs, so I want to make sure I don't miss anything.
Thanks.
Posts: 2,118
Threads: 112
Joined: Jun 2010
City: Medford OR (OR what?)
Looks like the original part was 30-2327. That one you have has a Philco part no. It might be a replacement or the factory could have subed it. Note the polarity.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
Posts: 15,818
Threads: 554
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
8uF should work in place of 12uF, will result in a bit lower B+ voltage.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Posts: 2,118
Threads: 112
Joined: Jun 2010
City: Medford OR (OR what?)
(06-26-2018, 09:54 AM)morzh Wrote: 8uF should work in place of 12uF, will result in a bit lower B+ voltage.
I think that he has both caps - 12uf and 4uf/8uf.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
Posts: 46
Threads: 15
Joined: Nov 2017
City: Pittsburgh, PA
Thanks all! The issue comes from the production change section of my schematic package where it says the original run of can 25 (30-2327) was replaced by 30-2179 ( mine) in runs 1-3 . It states that the only difference in the two was in the mounting. Clearly my can shows a dramatic schematic shift from what I'm looking at. I was hoping those of you who have repaired this model could let me know what you saw in can #25, otherwise I'll go directly off the specs and ignore the stamp.
Thanks for the input!
Posts: 667
Threads: 11
Joined: Sep 2014
City: Bellmawr, NJ
Well,, from looking at the can and the schematic,,,,the can is reverse of the drawing,,, Yellow is feeding both sides of the can,,the 4uf which goes to the center tap of the transformer,,and the 8uf is going to the Chassis (Ground)----Schematic shows 4uf going to the Chassis,,,and the 12uf going to the center tap of the transformer,,,,cut the can open and restuff with thee right caps for the schematic,,,,,and REMARK CAN