Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 144H - How far to go?
#1

After reading many posts I can see that this is the place for Philco Phanatics. Hopefully you can work with my basic of situation. 
I recently restored my long-deceased grandparents Philco cabinet radio (Grandma passed in 1968 and the radio sat in a dry attic until it was pulled out in 2012). 

I believe I have a model 144H. The sticker inside the cabinet says Philco Models 44, 504, & 144. The chassis has no identifying sticker or place but there is a stenciled 38 1222. 

I’m quite content with how it looks, and (at the risk of offending you Phans), I am actually content with just having a piece of nice furniture from my grandparents. Maybe just wire up the speaker to a phono-jack and plug in my iPad. 

But I’m pretty good at tinkering, including wiring, soldering, and general small tool work. So...what’s the chance of getting this long-dead puppy working?  And what can I expect if it were to become functional?  Is it only an AM radio?  Are the other “channels” operational?


Attached Files Image(s)
       
#2

The radio looks great!

As for wirng the speaker to your iPad, it will short it out. Plus you need to power the field coil.
Chances for you to succed.....non-zero, if you're lucky enough and your coils are ok.
You will have to read some, abe start with full recap. It's a bit tedious but then you said you liked tinkering.

Don't power it. Dont try to connect the speaker-you will destroy something.
Start by the book.

And welcome.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

Thanks for the info and speaker information. 

The power plug was crushed (which sounds like a good thing since you say don’t plug it in  Icon_smile)

I’ll need to replace the plug—actually the entire cord. 

So don’t power it up...until?
#4

...Until it has been RECAPPED!!! You run the very real risk of shorting your transformers and other items, or worse! Very costly mistake just to "see if the lamps or speaker work". That is a GORGEOUS radio!!!  Icon_thumbup
#5

Hi & welcome,
>So don’t power it up...until?
You replace: #'s 22 (.05mfd), 25 (.05mfd), 26 (3X.25 mfd & 4X .05mfd), 42 (.05mfd), 45 (.01mfd), 48 (.05mfd), 55 (.25mfd), 57 (.01mfd), 59 (.006mfd), 63 (2x .01 & 1-.015mfd), 67 (3x10mfd 450v electrolytic), 69 (.015mfd), 71 (10mfd 450v electrolytic), and 76 (.02mfd).
Technical info found here:  http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013137.pdf
Never apply power to the set without the spkr plugged into the chassis. I will damage #'s 67 and 71, the only exception is with the #80 tube removed.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#6

Tube radios, besides understanding basic electronics or at least electricity, involves high voltages, of quite lethal magnitudes (200-500 VDC and up to 700V AC), and some other skills (possibly coil rewinding, soldering, handling measurement/alignment equipment. speaking of which - you might need to buy it if not in possession of such), so:
If you are feeling overwhelmed, there are likely people in your area who might be able to help you, possibly for a fee, which could be reasonable.
If however you want to make it a learning project, and it will last awhile - we could try to help you here.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#7

Mike, I think the OP is talking about the power cord plug being damaged.
#8

Mike

Thanks....misread it. Surprised myself - I was looking at the pic of it and it seemed intact thiugh the view is partial from the top; and I know this one, it is extremely sturdy unlike the previous backelite version. Icon_smile
Some things combined in my head somehow... Icon_lol

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#9

Once again, thanks for the helpful information. I see there is an electronics Phorum when/if I’m ready. If any of the early response is an indication, I can see there will be plenty of help. And, yes, to clarify the power cord, the part which plugs into an outlet is what is busted such that there are just metal prongs attached to wires.  Everything else component-wise appears intact.

With all that in mind, I’m still curious what I will have when I’m done?  A perfectly functional AM radio?  Any other features?  I don’t mean that in a bad way—it’ll be cool to resurrect this machine. But is that what I’m working to accomplish?
#10

Yes, this is what you will achieve: having a functioning AM radio. No more, no less.
One perk: if you buy a small home transmitter, you could transmit hour own programming and make the radio play it.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#11

Or you can cut a bluetooth pickup into the circuit and transmit from your phone or computer or whatever you want into it and still have the original am also! Best of both worlds!
#12

AM and shortwave, actually.

ChasBett, did you refinish that cabinet? It's beautiful! Icon_thumbup Icon_thumbup You are fortunate in that it still had its original cloth, which has never been reproduced.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#13

Shortwave is AM Icon_smile

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#14

Shortwave is amplitude modulation, yes. But the frequencies used between AM and SW are quite different.

And the 144 is capable of reception in four bands between 540 kc and 22.5 mc...so it is not limited to just the standard AM (broadcast) band of 540-1710 kc.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#15

But you can also hear CW  (continuous wave) and SSB (single sideband) both of which need a BFO (beat frequency oscillator) to be understood on your AM/shortwave radio.

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 60 Squealing
Wondering if I did it backwards. If a coil was wound backwards, the oscillator would not work at all. Old school...Chas — 07:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
4-ohm speaker. Black, Green leads.tludka — 07:00 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
#87 on the schematic.  This radio had a 8" Zenith  speaker attached to it when I got it. I do don't know the hist...Stevelog — 06:39 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I'm pretty sure I now have the litz wire soldered. This did not make any difference. Back in April I rewound the seconda...dconant — 06:25 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
Just to make sure, you chose either 4 ohm into 5K or into 10K? (blk-org or blk-grn)morzh — 06:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 05:34 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
>>A closer examination of the very small print schematic indicates that the speaker is a PM type. This shows a ...morzh — 05:18 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
Litz is typically tinned by simply rubbing it with the soldering iron tip while immersed in solder (and a bit of rosin f...morzh — 05:14 PM
Philco 6K7
The suppressor grid (if by G3 you mean the S) is usually at the Cathode potential, which in this caes is GND. I am not ...morzh — 05:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the radio was removed before bidding was over so I didn't get a chance to bid.dconant — 04:10 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 4921 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 4919 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>