[Kenneth F. Besso Jr.]

looks like a zenith power resistor,,,,they are usually measured higher that rated

[Eliot Ness]

Bought the fully assembled battery from Ed (with WWII) logo.
He has it down to an art and I would have to do this...with less spectacular results and for many hours. Considering there are still expenses, not a huge price to pay.

Those are a pretty good buy for the cosmetic display alone.  Are you also ordering one of his battery holder kits, and are the D cells still needed?  When I move my radios (ugh) next week I'll peek in the back of my Bomber and see what condition the D cell holder is in.

You could also measure/compare that resistor (?) to your other chassis since you have the luxury of two sets.  I'd be curious to see what it reads both ohm and capacitor wise out of circuit, but I agree it is most likely a resistor.

[morzh]

John

yeah I could possibly do that, meaning the comparative check, though for this I will have to take apart the second radio and I only have so much space on my bench

What is "battery holder" kit? or you mean, separate? No, I ordered the whole thing, assembled. With box, holder, connector - he puts it all together. I received it yesterday, it is ready for the batteries to be put inside. He also gave me one of the Double-D holders (aluminum) for free instead of that rusty monster I have.

[morzh]

I suspected it was R17, 390 Ohm (in this code - 340 Ohm), and on ARF Easyrider said it was R17. So I looked at it on the computer screen and found the tie-dot that tied it to the C27 cap which I could not see on my printout. So it is Wirewound R17, 390 Ohm (again, they used 340 Ohm here, I guess they used what was the nearest value in stock as long as it did not affect performance).


PS. Yesterday while extracting the second twistlock cap I found out the tuning cap cord has been broken, so will have to restore that one.

[jcassity]

What part is this? A resistor?
The colors are Brn-Yel-Org.

i know your past this but.... with the direction of the arrow,,,, your first digit is the orange,, then what appears to be white,, then brown for the multiplier,, which comes to 390 "something".

your pic looks like the middle is white and maybe it actually is , with discoloration and age appearing to you under your light to be yellow.

I have not yet ran across a "single row" domino component like that but i would have "assumed" it was a cap.

[morzh]

   
   
   


The refilled cap and the chassis with some caps replaced (and some are still not).

[EdHolland]

Nice work

[morzh]

Fully recapped. The resistors all stay: all are within reason.
Oh, and no frayed wiring, all is soft and plyable.

   

   
   

[codefox1]

Looks very nice! I've got couple of little newer Trans Oceanics on my "to finish" bench now. I found the battery/AC "switch" needed to be sprayed and worked back and forth a few times to bring one of 'em back to life. Lubed all the other switches and band switches and pots with Deoxit D-5. I found many resistors had gone way up in value, and will replace 'em whilst recapping. Am being careful to mind the original orientation of each component when doing so.

[morzh]

Yes, Deoxit treatment is in my plans.
As well as many other things.

Next is the tubes testing.

PS. What I liked about this recapping was the wax they used:: very easily melted and extracted. Nice change from the Tropic which was that one that does not melt at all.

[jcassity]

so you reuse the wax after you re-stuff from what i have read and seen....

what do you end up using inside as a filler ,, cotton balls or what?
im guessing that your reusing the wax for the ends of the caps ?

[morzh]

I used to re-use the wax. It is messy and doesn't hold well by itself - it requires first some hot plastic glue and then the wax on top for looks only. And sometimes there is little space left at the ends after the spacing wads are placed.
Plus not every was is well-reusable (in this radio it is).
But I just bought colored hot glue and now I do not re-use the wax.

I do not fill space between the cap and the tube - it is not needed.
At the ends when space allows I use wadding: I cut a strip of thin cardboard (like from cereal packaging box), roll it up in a spiral and insert at the end, feeding the cap's lead through; then I insert the second rolled strip over the other lead. This holds the cap in place and allows potting the ends with the hot glue, at the same time isolating the cap from the glue itself.
When space does not allow spiraled paper, I cut a circle from it, put hole in the middle and use it instead. The effect is the same: the glue is kept from damaging the cap and the cap is held in place while well-centered.


Actually, one cap (in the last photo it is the one on to at the chassis wall, 22-1207, 0.07uF) was not even restuffable: it was a fully plastic cap with the thin paper sleeve with marking, thin means - thinner than printer paper. I removed the cap and restuffed the paper sleeve. Had to be gentle.

[jcassity]

ok, thats simple enough.
i did not know they sell colored hot glue sticks.

[morzh]

I bought mine on Amazon. Tried Hobby Lobby, did not have it. I have 11mm glue stick gun, so had to look there. Found just one vendor but that was enough.

[jcassity]

sorry to hi-jack this but on the caps again....

ive noticed this is the third time i can see where the exterior of the caps look better than when you started.
are you restoring the outside cap paper tube as well?

i find it oddly the same color tone as a manila folder shade of brown.

seems like one could make a template in word (or better yet excel) and then print out the tube on a printer then cut it out and wrap.

if the printer were set to dump out ink in a "quick print" setting, then the "look" of the ink would be a really close match.