[Dan Walker]

I have had good results with applying titebond glue to both the cabinet and the new veneer.
 let it dry and then iron it on. It worked quite well with a new top.
 here are some photos Of the one I did .
    Dan in Calgary

[Ron Ramirez]

Dan

You always do great cabinet work and I always enjoy seeing the results of your labor.

I've used a hot iron to iron veneer on previously, after using Titebond. I learned the technique from John "Hagstar" Hagman. More recently, however, he told me that he doesn't do that anymore as it gave him some problems. So I have opted for the contact cement.

His old technique was somewhat different from yours - he applied the glue, laid the veneer down, then started ironing while the glue was wet. As I said, I've done this a few times and it worked.

The contact cement arrived yesterday. The roller arrived today. Hopefully tomorrow, I will get that first large piece of veneer cut and attached to the left side. Then will come the four narrow strips of veneer at the bottom, plus a couple of the narrow strips on the bottom of the right side. I may do those another day.

[Ron Ramirez]

Well, I did accomplish a little with the T7-5 cabinet.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_097.jpg]

I traced out a template of the left side, showing the various pieces of veneer which need to be cut.

Of course, the large piece is not square.

Well, between working on my RCA 6T2 and my Philco 66, plus mowing the yard, this is as far as I was able to get with the T7-5. Maybe one evening this coming week, I can get the veneer cut to size and ready to glue into place.

[Eliot Ness]

Anxiously waiting to see how your contact cement turns out. I've used it with mixed results in the past so hopefully yours will turn out nice.

[Ron Ramirez]

I sure hope so

Actually, I'm more concerned about getting the veneer cut correctly than in getting it glued on.

[Arran]

Ron;
  I would probably glue the veneer on first, and then cut the grooves in it, once it is one the cabinet. Does the grain of the veneer run from front to back or top to bottom?
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

Arran

The grain runs front to back (horizontally).

Tonight, while you lucky guys were enjoying your drinks and food at the Basin Street Hotel in Kutztown, PA, I was outside my garage, cutting veneer and gluiing it to the T7-5 cabinet.

The first large piece I cut was just slightly too small (naturally) so I gave up on trying to cut it the right size and made it slightly oversized, lining it up on the front edge before pushing it down and rolling it into place with my little rubber roller which I had purchased just for this job.

The next piece was cut just slightly oversize and was glued into place.

For the bottom three strips, Arran, I followed your advice and glued one solid piece in place. I will attempt to cut the grooves later...hoping that works out because I've never done that before.

After I glued the veneer into place and rolled it out, I carefully trimmed the excess from the large top piece and the second smaller piece, as well as the back and bottom edges of the bottom piece.

Photos:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_098.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_099.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_100.jpg]

Hmmm...I see that I didn't quite get the bottom edge of the large top piece evenly trimmed. I'll correct that later.

No, the veneer doesn't really match what is on the right side, but it will have to do. It's better than no veneer at all.

Now, that leaves the three thin strips on the lower right side which also need to be replaced. I have one of the original strips which will be glued back. As for the other two...I will glue one solid piece on and then cut a groove in the middle of it.

[Arran]

Ron;
  A thin saw blade should be able to cut out those grooves, such as a hack saw blade following a straight edge, unless you happen to have a veneer saw, which is unlikely. The reason I suggested putting these on in one piece is if you didn't you would go crazy trying to line up each strip, and trying to get the grain running in the right direction, it's also what they did in the factory when they built the cabinet many years ago.
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

Hey Arran

That is a great idea!

So this evening, I tried it:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_101.jpg]

It turned out perfectly, I think. The width of the hacksaw blade was perfect (or nearly so) for the job.

Now all it needs is the black lacquer in the grooves again and it will look "factory".

So let's look at the right side of the cabinet:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_102.jpg]

That first smaller strip of veneer under the wide groove is very loose. Now I am considering taking it off, just gluing a solid piece of new veneer in place of the strips, and then cutting grooves with the hacksaw again since it turned out so well on the left side.

Arran, thanks very much for the tip!

[Ron Ramirez]

If anyone's here...

I decided to remove the loose strip of veneer and apply a piece of new veneer to the lower section of the right side of the cabinet.

Here is how it looked prior to applying the contact cement, with the replacement veneer properly cut and ready to apply:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_103.jpg]

I took the cabinet and veneer outside, and set up my folding work table. It wasn't raining but was cool and cloudy, looking as if it could rain at any time, so I set up shop under the carport. I opened up the can of contact cement and applied it to the cabinet where the veneer was going to be attached, and to the back of the sheet of veneer I was going to use.

After waiting the requisite 15 minutes, I carefully attached the veneer to the cabinet.

The contact cement does not immediately grab the veneer - it allows you the chance to properly position it first, which is a good thing!

Once positioned, I pressed it down with one hand, then began to roll it out.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_104.jpg]

After rolling, here is how it looked:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_105.jpg]

After rough cutting of the excess veneer:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_106.jpg]

Then, I took the cabinet inside and with a combination of more cutting and sanding, I had the new veneer fitting the contours of the cabinet. This is why it looks uneven along the bottom edge in the photo below - the bottom edge of the cabinet is uneven.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_107.jpg]

I started to cut one of the grooves before realizing that I needed to let the contact cement dry first. So the grooves won't get cut for a day or two.

I have identified six areas where old veneer needs to be glued down before refinishing, so I will take care of that next.

It's pretty amazing - this cabinet has gone from being a water damaged wreck to almost being ready for refinishing.

[KCMike]

I've been following along all the way with your cabinet restoration.
Looking good Ron.

[klondike98]

yes...watching with interest!

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks Mike and Bob.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-5_108.jpg]

I've glued all of the spots which I had identified as needing to be glued down. Those also include the right front corner of the top veneer, and the lower front and back corners of the right side veneer. In those areas, I glued them the way I used to - by getting as much Titebond glue into the corners as possible, then ironing them down with an old iron.

Since I took the photo above this afternoon, I have removed the clamps only to find another spot needing to be glued which is the bottom front trim on the right side. That has now been glued and is clamped.

On the first decent outdoor afternoon we have this week, I hope to finish preparing this cabinet by cleaning a few remaining trouble spots in front with acetone. I will also cut those grooves in the bottom right side veneer, and apply a little wood putty in a couple spots that need it. And then next weekend (which is supposed to be sunny and cooler)...I hope to get this cabinet sealed and then apply the grain filler. I might just get this one refinished this year after all. We shall see.

[Arran]

Ron;
  Very good, now the ugly gouged side looks better then the "good" side of the cabinet. Doesn't it make you wish that you stripped off the rest of the veneer on the right side and reveneered it as well? Speaking of veneer, what did they use on the sides originally, it looks sort of like poplar or some other grainless wood? Of course it had so much paint and other garbage all over it that left plenty of residue.
   Speaking of gluing and clamping, I found one of the most useful tools for repairing cabinets, and other furniture, isn't even a woodworking tool, it's a hypodermic needle and syringe, I don't know where you can buy them but I have plenty that came out of a care home. Another good tool to collect are bar clamps, they operate kind of like a "C" clamp but the jaws are about 10'' long so they have more reach, and the top jaw slides down the bar so you don't have to adjust the screw threads as much. I bought a bunch of them from Canadian Tire a few years ago, whenever they had a sale, maybe a U.S hardware chain carries similar ones?
Regards
Arran

[klondike98]

a hypodermic needle and syringe,

I got some syringes through amazon. A longer needle may be helpful at times and perhaps a smaller gauge as well but these are what I've been using along with a long thin spatula to help spread the glue in to tight spots.