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Hi All
Where do you get hook-up wire to replace the rubber wire on the philco's. I have the 39-116 and I need to replace most of the wire. I was some on Radio daze I think
Thanks
Joe
Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
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You really cannot get a suitable original replacement for the rubber wire. I use, and recommend. the fabric covered wire from Radiodaze. The non-rated #20 wire is about the correct size and comes in the necessary colors. The 600v rated stuff is too bulky.
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City: St Clair Shores, MI, USA
I agree with Ex. Another alternative is using heat shrink. You remove one end of the wire, and slip it over (after removing the old rubber insulation, which usually can be crumbled off), then heat it to shrink. Make/be extra careful when using flame to shrink it. Don't get get near a coil with a flame.
-Brian
If you collect or are interested in antique telephones, please visit Classic Rotary Phones
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Heat shrink is the method I use as Brian mentioned, although I shrink the tubing before sliding it over the wire, avoiding the possibility of getting a flame near critical components.
I usually use an Aladdin lamp to shrink the tubing; the heat coming from the chimney of an operating Aladdin is several hundred degrees, so it is great for this application. I try to do this sort of work in the winter for this reason, when supplemental heat always comes in handy. Just slowly pulling the tubing over the chimney...being careful to not let your hand get over the chimney...does the trick quite well.
[Image: http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k420/...alad07.jpg]
One of my Aladdins, a Model 7 from 1917. I don't use this one to shrink tubing, though; I use a newer model with no shade.
Back on topic...heat shrink tubing, once shrunk, makes the wires look original yet new. Exray's method of replacing with cloth covered wire is also a great replacement for the old wire.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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One reason I use heat shrink is keeping the original length and locations of the wires. Certain ckt's related to the RF section are critical, and the wrong location or length can cause issues like motor-boating etc. etc. I know the regulars know this, but for those who may not, it's something to keep in mind. Ron's method is fail safe, mine isn't if careless. I use a BBQ lighter (length and low flame). I'm confident in using it, but special care MUST BE TAKEN! If the wire is under the coil section, I wont bother heating it as long as it's properly covered. I'm not going for the Smithsonian look, just a clean proper job.
-Brian
If you collect or are interested in antique telephones, please visit Classic Rotary Phones
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Ditto what Brian said regarding original length and locations of the wires.
I have used a BBQ lighter and even a regular lighter at times; but I find using an Aladdin lamp is easier for me, especially when I have a lot of tubing to shrink - and any 1939-42 Philco is going to require a lot of tubing if the resleeving method is used.
As Brian said, special care must be taken. Hold the flame on one spot of the tubing too long, and the tubing will bubble and burn. The same thing could happen if I held the tubing still over the Aladdin chimney. The trick is to keep the tubing moving over the chimney, or keep the flame moving across the tubing.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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You're right Ron. Nothing is fail-safe. Care must be taken regardless which method is used.
-Brian
If you collect or are interested in antique telephones, please visit Classic Rotary Phones
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php
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I use a heat gun on the LOW setting. I find it quite satisfactory.
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Hello Joe,
I too use heat shrink but in sets like the airline I'm working on for a customer I'm also using some new color pvc wire to replace some of the old .
Far as shrinking it I use a heatgun made for shrinking heatshrink made by MASTER APPLIANCE it even comes with a nozzle that ruduces the opening to allow to heat in small area .
Rich
P.S. Ron I sure like you Aladdin lamp I have a few like that would be found on waltons or little house in the praier.
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Hi All
Thanks for the info. I think from the comments I will use both ideas. Some Heat shrink and some new wire. It is a big job isn't it? I did a Zenith Cube radio one time but there was much less wiring to do. So I will get to it maybe I can have it done by Christmas . See Yea
Joe
Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
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Hello joe,
I have a Zenith 5D625 that also has that bad wire.
I also like have it done by christmas to give as a gift.
Here's a few steps to follow if you have a digital camera take lots of photo's and make drawings use masking tape as labels.
Take it slow and check your work often and stop when your tired.
Rich
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radiorich Wrote:Here's a few steps to follow if you have a digital camera take lots of photo's and make drawings use masking tape as labels.
Take it slow and check your work often and stop when your tired.
Rich
Good advice which goes WAY beyond the rubber wiring issue.
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Using a heat gun is a very good idea. The same caution applies - don't apply heat to one area too long, to avoid burning the tubing.
Taking photos is always a good idea, also, even for those of us who have done this for decades. I took several photos of my 41-226 chassis as its restoration was in progress, especially since I had to remove all three IF transformers to not only get to their wires, but to get to the wires surrounding them. That was a tough chassis, because everything is jam-packed in a small space.
As I mentioned above, I prefer to redo rubber wiring insulation with heat shrink tubing in the winter, because I usually have an Aladdin lamp operating anyway for supplemental heat.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 594
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Joined: Aug 2010
City: Shepherdsville, KY
Hello all
Well I used all comments and replaced and shrink, it came out very good, I recapped it, restuffed the el caps, checked the tubes, found and repaired the broadcast r.f. coil, 8) put new ac cord, took the power transformer apart and replaced the rubber wire, It did not need realignment it was right on the money, turned it on and that is quite a sensitive receiver. The power volume control works fine, I have not done anything with the remote yet. I did connect a rf generator to the terminals and the relays pulled in. So I have to get me a battery rigged up for the remote wonder where I can find a socket that was used in the battery. Anyway just wanted to let all know it worked Will get to work on the cabinet maybe soon Hope all are well take care
Joe
Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
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Hello w4rtc ,
Yes I'm glad to see you have that set up and running.
Ron I bet that was a tough chassis.
I to save doing rubber wiring for the winter.
I have to many outside during the summer projects todo so no time for radios then.
Rich
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