Posts: 3
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2018
City: Roanoke
State, Province, Country: VA
Greetings! My name is Jeff, and I recently purchased a Philco 46-1203 radio for my very first restoration. I've been creeping on the various forums for a while now, but figured I would have to create an account now that I am officially an owner. I have already downloaded the DjVu plugin and schematic, and I am currently searching for an isolation transformer to protect myself from electricity on the chassis. So while I wait for the isolation transformer to be purchased, is it possible for me to go ahead and start recapping as long as I don't apply power. And for the sake of time and energy from Googling every single capacitor part #, is there a page that lists them all in terms of what to replace them with? I'm guessing that page 8 of the schematic lists what is currently on the chassis, but I'm not familiar with recapping antiques.
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Posts: 5,088
Threads: 270
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Wilsonville
State, Province, Country: OR
Welcome to the Phorum!
Yes you can recap without the isolation transformer. You only need it when you apply power.
Yes p.8 of the service bulletin found here: http://www.audiophool.com/Philco.html is the list of parts. A schematic is also available on Nostalgiaair.
If you do a search on "46-1203" in the phorum many of the the results will be comments and questions on restoration similar to what you face. for example here's just one of them: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...ht=46-1203
post your questions as you go along, folks will usually respond pretty quickly.
Posts: 98
Threads: 2
Joined: Jul 2014
City: Eugene, OR
I’ve done two of those. One 46-1203 and the nearly identical 48-1256. My only complaint would be that the chassis on these is a sardine can! Very cluttered! My 46-1203 came out great and I still use it but the 48-1256 ended up being just a spare chassis. I decided the cabinet was too far gone to bother with.
Posts: 7,286
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Hi Jeff and welcome,
In regards to your cap question:
3- .05mfd nowadays = .047mfd @630v
1- .04mfd .047mfd XY rated 275vac
2- 15mfd 22mfd @ 250vdc
1- 40mfd 47mfd @ 250vdc
1- 10mfd 10mfd @ 250vdc
1-.2mfd .22mfd @ 630v
3-.01mfd .01mfd @ 630V
1- .0015mfd .0015mfd 630v
1- .1mfd .1mfd @630v
Some of these the voltage rating is much higher than needed but makes the ordering easier and little difference in cost.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-23-2018, 01:18 PM by Radioroslyn.)
Posts: 3
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2018
City: Roanoke
State, Province, Country: VA
You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar!
As for everyone else, thank you so much for all of the tips so far. I spent today reading over Phil's AntiqueRadio article and doing as much of the cleaning items that I could. Two questions: 1) The power cable was in terrible shape, so it ended up in the trash. From what I have read, I need to replace it with another 2 prong instead of a 3 prong to prevent buzzing correct? and 2) Does anyone have the specs on the speaker? Mine had a pretty gnarly gash in it and I was able to find the product number on the schematic, but it was a dead-end as to where I could buy another. (In terms of what the specs are.)
Posts: 7,286
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Would go w/a 2 prong non polarized plug, this would be the simplest. Because of the design of the power supply (voltage doubler) I don't think that the polarization is an issue. Just don't play with it in the bath tub!
The speaker I'm not sure what it used but if it's an oval shaped one those are a bit harder to come by. So look for something that will physically fit w/a voice coil impedance of 3-4ohms. You may want to wait to hear if the original sound ok. If not it maybe able to be reconed but typically on smaller speakers it's not cost effective. I would expect abt $20-30+shpng
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-23-2018, 06:15 PM by Radioroslyn.)
Posts: 3
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2018
City: Roanoke
State, Province, Country: VA
(12-23-2018, 06:10 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: Would go w/a 2 prong non polarized plug, this would be the simplest. Because of the design of the power supply (voltage doubler) I don't think that the polarization is an issue. Just don't play with it in the bath tub!
The speaker I'm not sure what it used but if it's an oval shaped one those are a bit harder to come by. So look for something that will physically fit w/a voice coil impedance of 3-4ohms. You may want to wait to hear if the original sound ok. If not it maybe able to be reconed but typically on smaller speakers it's not cost effective. I would expect abt $20-30+shpng
Awesome. The speaker that came in it orginially was a 6" I believe, so no oval shape.
Posts: 2,572
Threads: 337
Joined: Jun 2013
City: lawrenceville nj
why not patch your speaker
use Aleene`s tacky glue and coffee filter
or
black rubber cement glue
I have used both with good luck
sam
Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift
mafiamen2
Posts: 189
Threads: 22
Joined: Aug 2018
City: Kewanee
State, Province, Country: Illinois
What Sam said, I have done a couple of really bad speakers using the coffee filter repair with really good results. 
1929 Victor R-32, 1933 60L, Phil 40-158, Phil 42-400X, Phil 47-1230 Radio/Phono,, 1950 Phil TV t-1104, Air King 4000, Philco 41-105, Philco 37-675, RCA Victor 9K2, PT-50, Phil 54C, PT-44 Cabinet, Phil 118X Cabinet
Gregg 
Posts: 98
Threads: 2
Joined: Jul 2014
City: Eugene, OR
Try repairing your speaker as others have described. It’s good experience and it’s easy. If that doesn’t work I probably have a good spare I’d be willing to part with.
(This post was last modified: 12-24-2018, 03:30 AM by Squire.)
Posts: 619
Threads: 42
Joined: Mar 2017
City: Gap Mills Wv 24941
welcome to the forum,
i am a tad north of you actually.
play things of the past > google it,, is a good place to shop for your parts and he is really good about shipping.
i suggest a new cord that has a built in fuse to protect your radio, or remote mount a fuse under the chassis with a fuse that is future proof.
double check all your existing caps match the schematic you are using, once you do that, go through some of the resistors to make sure those color band values match the schematic as well. reason i say this is because it would not be the first time someone discovers after the fact they are working from a schematic that is the right model & code number but wrong "run number" etc.
i generally snip off the old cap at the tube socket or whatever but leave about 1/8'' of wire on the radio. my new cap i will pigtail the end and drop it on the wire i left behind ,, add flux then solder. this way you introduce less problems pulling at old wire on pins and such.
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