Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Another 89 Chasis from H**l!
#1

I know...what was I thinking. I have another model 89L (1934 Code 123, Run 13). I have completed the wood restoration, had the speaker re-coned, changed out all the caps, etc. I then brought the beast up on my variac. I should have known...nothing. I proceeded to check some voltages. I had no plate voltage on my 44 (RF) or my 36 (DET.OSC). Low and behold, I have not one but two open coils. One coil open on the Detector and one open on the Oscillator. Now that I have you all sympathizing with me, are there replacement coils available somewhere? I have not attempted to re-wind a coil, and I am a little intimidated. I guess as a last resort I would re-wind them.

As always, any help from the phorum would be appreciated!

Tom
#2

Tom

Before you even go to those coils, and because you did not mention these steps:

1. Check your transformer outputs what it should. For this, remove the rectifier tube (or even all the tubes) and see the High voltage coil end-to-end (will be on 600V level), and the filament voltage (whatever it is that should be there, see your tubes) and the filament voltage for the rectifier tube.

2. Make sure the filter caps are discharged and measure across them, to look for short.
3. Then put all tubes in, including the rectifier and hook up the speaker, and see if there is any high voltage there anywhere at all.
4. If yes and the tubes light up, then see why it is not where it should be (yes, coils open etc).

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

I did check the voltages. They are all very close to what they should be...
F on #80 is 5V
F on all other tubes is 6V
Plates of the #80 are 665V

I'll re-check the electrolytics when I get home this evening
#4

An open interstage coil (6) would keep B+ from the 44 RF amp plate.

However, your not having plate voltage at the 36 tube is a bit puzzling. Normally when the oscillator coil (14) fails, it is the cathode "tickler" winding (left-most winding of that coil on the schematic, 5.25 ohms) that goes open.

I suppose it could be corroded so badly from that nitrocellulose insulator Philco used back in the day that it may have caused the plate winding (5.07 ohms) to fail also. Check those out.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#5

Both of those are open. The coil that should read 1.68 ohms on 6 is open. The coil that should read 5.07 ohms on 14 between the the 36 Plate and cap #15 is also open.

I guess at this point, I'm looking for some re-winding videos or "how to's" on this. Does anyone know how many turns on each of these?
#6

I have notes at home...but I will have to look for and find them...

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#7

I am working on one of these code 123 with the 36 tube. This one the osc coil has been rewound and the detector coil also. 

I can get IF through it but it appears it is not oscillating. Now it will go to motorboating if the tuning gang gets opened all the way. 

These things are cranky. 

and how the heck to you get the stuck tube shields off?
#8

I found the thread when I had to rewind coils on my model 89. Perhaps it will be of some help:

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=8753

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#9

Awesome thread! I am sure this will be very helpful in my quest.
#10

By the way Ron, you were right. It was the "tickler" coil. I was reading the wrong pins...rookie mistake!
#11

Reading these threads on the 89 series of chassis doesn't make me want to touch my 19B anytime soon...
#12

Come on Brad...take the challenge. There is nothing more satisfying than sitting back and listening to these babies after restoration!
#13

Nothing really bad about them.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#14

Go for it Brad, I have rewound a number of different coils now and will give you hand if needed.

Gregb
#15

Re-wound both coils last night. They turned out really good for my first time. I attached a before after pic. Cant wait to get them back into the chassis.


Attached Files Image(s)
       




Users browsing this thread: 8 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
I read about a kit to convert the variable speed changer in the Philco 42-1008 into a single speed unit.  That would rem...alangard — 09:30 PM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
Tim Well...a chassis is metal. Magnetic or not, it does not matter. A transformer has some hum to it. It is natural. Th...morzh — 08:40 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I thought the 83 tube was bad because it looked white but it tests strong. Blue gassy though. I checked the fuse, it was...martinj — 08:37 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ross I am not sure what current limiting effect the incandescent provides. They are two different parts of the sch...morzh — 08:31 PM
12' Philco
Bob Thanks for that photo. I have been looking for it, and I cannot find anythinmg on the web. I forgot it was here...morzh — 08:29 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
I think after all has been said, I will use the same bulb that is specified for the dial pilot light which is a #55. I ...georgetownjohn — 07:31 PM
12' Philco
There was also this Philco! klondike98 — 07:25 PM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
I expected a challenge and this is just part of it. But, it's also supposed to be fun, entertaining, informative and enj...TV MAN — 07:12 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Butting in here with a question. Since the shadow meter is connected directly to the 1st and 2nd I.F.'s wouldn't the met...RossH — 06:43 PM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
Mike, Tim; you are about to enter the twilight zone. Doo doo doo doo, doo doo doo doo This is something alright. I'm go...RodB — 06:26 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>