[WyTex]

Hi Mike -

 The Zenith TO handles that I've replaced used split rivets.   Replacements can be found here.
 

https://ohiotravelbag.com/rivets

But getting the originals out of the wood can make new ones difficult to attach if too much of the wood is broken away.  Sometimes I've gotten it to work, others times I've resorted to a screw/nut combo that Aaron described.  

Very fun thread to follow.
Thanks,
Paul

[morzh]

Paul

Thanks a lot! Now I know what those are.
Now what I have to understand is how it looks (how it goes) inside the wood.
And also, what is the tool that is used to put them in?
Plus, what size is needed.

Mike.

[morzh]

The battery kit just came today. So hopefully I can make it work today also.
The Trolmaster did its magic on the pot so no more scratching sounds.

[Eliot Ness]

......Now what I have to understand is how it looks (how it goes) inside the wood.
And also, what is the tool that is used to put them in?
Plus, what size is needed......

Like Paul mentioned, digging out those split rivets often digs out too much wood to use new ones, but for reference I'm also curious what tool is used and the correct size.  Looking at the picture below you can see how some tools actually curled the ends of the split rivets.  I suspect the tool Zenith used did the same while burying the ends into the wood, thus making removal difficult.

   

As I mentioned earlier I think using a blind brass screw (round head with no slot) is the way to go, and you could even just drill out the center post that actually holds the handle in place and replace it with a blind screw.  You'd have to drill a small hole under the handle so a nut and washer could hold it in place, but that way you're not digging out the 4 original rivets.  Unfortunately I've not been able to find a blind brass screw of the correct size.

What some guys use are regular screws they paint a brass color, but I'd much rather find some blind brass screws of the correct size.

Edit: doing more searching it looks like Restoration Supply Company sells threaded brass rivets (essentially a round head with no slot) on page 38 of their catalog along with split rivets and tool on page 39:

http://www.restorationstuff.com/pdf/Rest...ompany.pdf

https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommer...&cPath=200

I'm not sure if 1" will be long enough for the center that holds the handle but it should be for the sides and I just ordered 4 each of the 1"  147, 148, and 602 to see how well they'll work.

[morzh]

John

I can't claim I understood all of what you said, as my experience in any of this is lacking, but I will learn as I go.
Thanks for the link, might come handy soon.


Today tried the battery after tightening the connector sockets, and it didnt work. While working fine from AC.
So I suspected the battery-AC switch, and as I didnt quite figure the contacts arrangements, I decided to open it and clean the contacts. Wasnt too difficult.
Inside everything looked clean, so I cleaned it a bit more with alcohol and then Deoxit. Put it back.....it worked after that. Not even sure why. But it is all good as I saw how the contacts are arranged.

Ed will send me 4 of single battery holders (two dual glued together dont allow the cover to close by 1/8") and then it will be all. Aside from the handle, of course.

[morzh]

Today the leather handles came in.
Or what I hope are leather handles.
Cause I'm not sure.

They came fast, the max promised date was like the beginning of April.
That's the good news.

The handle looks like it does in the picture.
But it smells funny: everyone knows the smell of leather. This one smells like some chemical......or vinyl. The sides do not show layers. I think they are bound by some smooth plastic rim.
The handle certainly is not very thick, 1/4".
It bends more like plastic than like leather.
It wasn't lot of money, so I'm ok with that.

I wrote to the seller, asking him if he is sure this is leather.

It actually will do for a small radio like the 5G500.
I doubt it is strong enough for the full size TO.

[Arran]

With regard to those split rivots, you could cut the legs off with a cutting wheel, such as on a Dremmel with a one of those flexible speedometer cable drives , or try drilling between the pair of legs.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

I have flexible Dremel attachment.

[morzh]

Today I received the answer from the seller to my question: "Is it leather?"

Here it is:

>> thank you for your message, the material is decided by the price, thank you !

So I wrote back that, 1) answer makes no sense, 2) it is advertized as leather so the price has nothing to do with it, so 3) is it leather or do I file "item not as described" case?

[morzh]

The more I look at it and smell it.....I think it might be what they introduced very recently and call "Bonded Leather".
The idea behind it was to utilize those scraps and pieces of leather that cannot be used as solid leather pieces anymore: they mill them and then mix with polyurethane binder, and then form it into solid pieces.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonded_leather

[morzh]

Today the reply came from the seller:

"It is artificial leather , thank you ".

So I was right and this was too good to be true.
Good thing I did not go for 4 handles.

A real leather handle seems to be sold for just 3 bucks more.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gig-Tuff-Genuin...ctupt=true

[WyTex]

Regarding the handle rivets, I think Zenith must have had some sort of custom machinery to bend the split rivets down into the wood after installation.  Or they might have been installed before the chassis shelf was inserted.  Either way, I couldn't see any way of using the recommended tool so I didn't bother with it.  Once I was able to use a long chisel and small hammer to bend the rivets down enough but there was still some play.  I ended up sealing the rivets from the bottom by filling the area with epoxy.  That held it down tight.

Sorry for the late reply Mike.  Life is in getting in the way of my radio hobby the last six months.  

Regards,
Paul

[Eliot Ness]

The same seller you linked to with real leather also has a handle with a raised center, I wonder if this would look better than a flat handle:

   

[morzh]

John

Yes, it will look better, but it is the same handle I have now - artificial. If you look at the side of the handle in that listing, you will see it is not leather. He probably gets them at the same place in China.


Paul,

Hopefully nothing too bad?

[Eliot Ness]

I have seen some genuine U.S.A. made leather handles that look pretty good but they are $40 +.  Hopefully the leather handle on eBay works out well if you decide to order it.