[Eric]

I have a Silvertone 101.571 chassis 6321 the Schematic here.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...017485.pdf

The problem is I don't have any alignment info, other than a remark that " Conventional Alignment See Special Section Volume VIII". Which I can not find anywhere. I finished the recap someone started, replaced all resistors that were over 20%. I replaced the 6K8 which was bad the others tested good. Volume and output sounds good and I pick up some stuff on the SW band but nothing on BC. T1 and T2  IF coils are good. I have put 455kc signal in the 6K8  pin 3 and do get a tone so I did adjust the IF for output and they do peak out but not sure where to go next. It says to adj C5 1550kc and C 1 1400kc Any help would be appreciated.

Eric

[Chas]

Special Section VIII is a front end to the Riders Volume VIII, not reproduced in Nostalgia. However going with conventional alignment, do as for any typical AA5 set.

Do check the band switch and the antenna coils for BC band. Most likely one is open. Or miss-wire during the shotgunning.

Chas

[Eric]

    I have Vol VIII but can not find the info in my volume but I took a closer look at the band switch and the phenolic wafer looked warped so I pressed against it and started receiving. It looks like a tone control except for the back which is phenolic but they do not have enough tabs to keep it straight. I will have to figure a way to compress it slightly and permanently. Thanks for the help.

[Chas]

Ugh, I dislike that type of band-switch, very, very fragile. The solder tabs are hardened, any flexing and the tab will break off. Look carefully at the wafer and the metal housing. There should be three or four tabs from the housing that clinch the phenolic. The phenolic is accurately notched to accept the tab if it has been properly aligned. It looks like the one visible is slightly offset... I would not try to correct that as the phenolic could crack or the tab break.

To make a permanent fix and YMMV, cut off all the wires, attempting to de-solder in place will either cook the phenolic or break the tab. Take copious notes, of connections, take a couple of pix in addition to the one posted. Remove the switch, find a small clamp or large jaw pliers, back up the front of the switch so not to mar it and distribute the force, gently close the all tabs tighter on the wafer. De-solder all the solder tabs, remove all the wire bits. Rinse, even soak, the switch in 91% alcohol, that will remove all rosin that has crept over the phenolic. If you have some De-Oxit, spritz a bit inside the contacts and use a light machine oil on the bushing. Manipulate the switch at least 50 times, even 100. Check the continuity of all contacts in both positions. Set the meter for high resistance and check for dis-continuity on all switch positions as well as between poles.

Reconnect the switch...

If the switch is ruined, the schematic seems to say it is a multi-pole two position, these are easy finds, question is is it non-shorting or shorting. A meter will say.

I have looked through my copy of VIII I also find no reference to "Conventional Alignment" I DO find that topic mentioned in the next brand of radio Sentinel. However, it refers to specific Sentinel radios, not Sears...

Because "Conventional" is a broad term I would expect it to mean the alignment given to any other 4-5 tube superhetrodyne table radio.

Therefore: mechanical alignment of the tuner and dial indicator. That means replacing any support grommets that have either rotted or sagged. Align the pointer with the tuner fully meshed either to the last mark on the dial or some specific "oddly" placed mark on the dial.

I'm sure you know the drill of 30% modulation as low a signal as possible, use what ever signal strength indicator you like, output, AVC, etc...

Coupling to the generator to the radio can be tricky if there are tuning adjustment directly connected to the antenna terminal. In this radio the power line neutral is the "ground". The antenna terminal is couple via a link then through a coupling cap to line, therefore the RF return is either via neutral or L1 by flipping the non-polarized plug in the wall socket.

I would align this radio with it powered via an isolation transformer. Connect the generator hot to the antenna via a .0001 cap. That would load the coupling link similar to a 25 or more foot wire either connect the generator return to the chassis or leave it floating... That should allow for reasonably accurate setting of C1 & C2...

GL

Chas

[radio63]

The "Special Section" of the Rider's Manuals was a loose leaf section that may or may not have made it into the manual depending on if the original owner of the book had it and added it in. I've seen Rider's Manuals that have had special sections included and others that did not. They do turn up on Ebay from time to time.

[Eric]

What I did was to bend the tabs in slightly and that seems to add enough pressure be make good contact. It took very little pressure on the phenolic to make contact after I focused on it from your post.

I have a  the rider books except XXI And I have noted that some have updates in the front that were never put in the proper spot so I'm sure some were never up dated.

I did and alignment and it looks like I got it right as I'm getting the normal stations from around here so I'm good. Now I will strip the polly off and refinish.
Thanks to all!
Eric