EH Scott Philharmonic AM/FM
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City: Allendale, MI
There's a guy on the ARF who was selling them quite a while back and he was using the tuner "subber". He had to rewind coils to get them in the right frequency range on 3 channels of the tuner. I'm hoping to get more info out of him or send him my subber for modification. From what I've read, they work very well and the FM sounds great. No modifications are needed on the radio as this unit hooks up to the FM antenna inputs of the radio. Interestingly, the radio tunes backwards as the following chart shows:
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Hmmm....tuning backwards would be the case if he works off beatings and tunes the outside oscillator....not sure why
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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The local oscillator in the modified tuner is higher in frequency than the incoming signal. The beat frequency is the IF of the tuner and is adjusted to fit in the tuning range of the old FM band. Thus the higher the desired incoming frequency, the lower the beat frequency and you have to tune lower on the FM dial. One other thing to note is that the band pass of the TV tuner IF has to be close to 8 mhz wide or the ends of the FM tuner dial would fall off in sensitivity. the guy doing this has scope traces showing the wide bandwidth.
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City: Lexington, KY
Glad you got the Philly, I toyed with the idea, but I have a 25 tube project I need to do before too long. Quite ambitious stripping those chassis, it will look great when finished.
Is that Steve Geary (azenithnut) doing the tuners?
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
(This post was last modified: 06-29-2019, 03:52 PM by Eliot Ness.)
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He has something similar using a Zenith TV tuner. The guy I'm talking about uses the Castle TV Tuner Subber, probably because it is self contained with its own power supply. His user name is Penthode. Here is a link to his discussion:
https://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtop...1#p2416131
You may need to scroll up.
(This post was last modified: 06-29-2019, 08:52 PM by rfeenstra.)
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Well rats! My local chrome plating shop went out of business. Went to take in the power supply chassis and all the parts only to find the doors closed with no new address. One of the guys on the EH Scott forum uses a shop in Wisconsin that I'll have to try. They even did the very thin aluminum coil shields. So maybe this is a blessing in disguise.
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The EPA has made it tough for small chrome plating shops to stay open.
Advance Plating in Nashville is a very large outfit that does very good work, but they aren't cheap. They just rebuilt after a fire and are working double shifts to catch up.
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
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Tough indeed. I know of one very small shop (no longer in business) who was forced to cap off all sewer pipes (no toilets) lest they dispose of waste material into the sewer. Don't know if it was the EPA or locals. I suppose it would be very tempting given the cost of toxic waste disposal.
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Parts for the power supply have been sent off to a shop in Wisconsin. They'll also do the thin, aluminum shield.
While those parts are gone, I decided to take a closer look under the tuner. A few caps have been changed, and the candohm is obviously bad as there is a resistor soldered across one section and another section is out of the circuit. Otherwise, not messed up. However, I'm beginning to agree with morzh: Night Mare! Stripping this chassis completely and then reassembling will be a LOT of work and full of miss-wiring possibilities. And I thought the EH Scott 16 I did was bad enough! I said I liked complicated radios. Well, this is it.
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You have my sincere sympathy. I am about to embark on the restoration of my Scott Radio Labs (successor to E. H. Scott) SLR-M marine radio. I just received it today, and haven't opened it up. First thing I have noticed is that I will need a new dial glass for the tuning dial. Other than that it seems in very decent shape. Before I get into it though, I'm going to finish the little cathedral I have been working on. I will say, I have downloaded the manual for it, which is extremely detailed and complete, and it looks to be a lot less of a blivit than what you are having to face. (blivit: An old Navy term meaning 10 pounds of dung stuffed into a 5 pound sack)
(This post was last modified: 08-07-2019, 08:07 PM by mikethedruid.)
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 I have a dial glass (plastic) for you. It has the band numbers on it like the original. You will have to drill the holes for the mounting pins and the index screw and maybe trim slightly with a file. Just send me a PM. Know that all of the coupling caps are mica and the bypass caps are oil bath type. I didn't change any of them in mine.
(This post was last modified: 08-07-2019, 08:34 PM by rfeenstra.)
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Thanks a LOT ! I sent you a PM.
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My Dad was in the Navy, I have heard of a Blivit! 
Also somethmig to do with a guy who started a story" Believe it or not".
Good luck on the Scotts, both.
Paul
Tubetalk1
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Actually, Paul, I think you're being polite... It's the definition of a "sea story": a story that begins with the line, "Now this ain't no s**t." LOL !
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