Let us know how the Soviet/Russian 6E5C tubes work out. I'm thinking about trying a couple of those, and making adapters for them.
I've found that metal tubes usually (not always, but usually) cost less than their G or GT glass counterparts. I just bought several for my RCA C15-3 so it would have all metal as per original (save for the 6E5 and 5Z3, that is).
Seeing your work on this set is making me want to get started on my T8-14, but I still have a big Hammarlund HQ-129-X on the bench so the RCA will have to wait.
Ron, you're doing great work on the Hammarlund. I'm anxious to know how it turns out for you. I love mine. Today my power resistors all arrived, so I'm going to install those. After that it's a little more work on the cabinet, and waiting for my tubes to arrive.
Mike
All the under chassis work is done. The electrolytic condensers replaced, the power resistors are in. One thing I noticed when replacing the electrolytic condensers, the originals were Aerovox 8 MFD, 600 Volt condensers. They all appeared to be originals to the radio. Interestingly, the schematic calls for 2 10 MFD and one 18 MFD condensers! I replaced the originals with 2 10 MFD and 1 20 MFD 600 Volt condensers per the schematic. I didn't bother re-stuffing the originals since there was plenty of room for the replacements under the chassis. As you all know, I am not one who tries to hide my work from the underside of the chassis. I figure, if someday someone else has to work on this radio, it is better if they know what has already been done.
Thanks, Jake. Actually, I was able to leave the original cans in place, and put the 3 new electrolytics under the chassis. From the top it looks just like it did before, except it is a LOT cleaner. I even cleaned out the 3 sections of the variable condenser using isopropyl alcohol and Dill's pipe cleaners. Today I gave the case a second scrubbing with white Go-Jo and steel wool. Yesterday I gave it it's first rub down which got off a LOT of old dead finish, and a lot of yellow nicotine and dirt that had accumulated. I noticed that there were still some spots of white paint on it after that, so today I gave it a second scrubbing with the steel wool and got off all that paint. The case looks quite good. There are a few small areas where the veneer is chipped off on the sides, but I am going to leave them alone. I'll be the first to admit I am not really much of a wood worker. They are hardly noticeable, and are "battle scars" that I'm not too concerned about. I am not really trying to make this radio look new. I am just making it look presentable again, and making it work as well as it did when new. After it has dried for a few days I'll rub it down with a coat of tung oil, give that a few days to dry then repeat as necessary until the finish is restored.
Excellent pics bud.
I see you went with axial electrolytic caps. I usually do also, but I sometimes struggle with that, wondering if radial electrolytics might have been a better choice in some given instance. I somehow ended up with radials in my last project (Motorola 51x17), and it worked out well...no extentions needed. I guess it depends on the particular points having to be reached.
(This post was last modified: 09-10-2019, 02:38 PM by Jake Blake.)
I broke down and just ordered a new dial from Radio Daze. Mine is still legible, but is quite faded, so I figure I may as well break down and replace it, since I already did all the other work.
Question: Does anybody know if this model, 8T-18, originally had decals on its front? I see no trace of any left. I have seen pictures of this model with an RCA Victor decal, and others without. Radio Daze carries a series of decals for the 8T http://www.radiodaze.com/rca-3-sets-decals-dcl-rc-6k/ but I am not at all sure if they are correct for this model, or if it didn't have any decals on its front to begin with.[url=http://www.radiodaze.com/rca-3-sets-decals-dcl-rc-6k/][/url]
Hi Dan, thanks for the pictures ! They will be a great help. Actually, I believe your radio is a T8-18, like mine, not a T7. From all I have researched, the T7-5 did not have the magic eye, the T8-18 does, that is the only big difference in the circuits, other than the T7-5 uses at type 80 rectifier and the T8-18 uses a 5Z4, and, of course, the cases are noticeably different. I do notice slight differences in our two cases, but these are probably due to different runs of the model. There should be a paper label on the inside of the case which shows the tube layout, and also gives the model number.
I don't have my RCA Red Books handy (they are downstairs and I am upstairs). The 1935 volume (1936 model year sets including mid-season 1935 models) includes black and white photos of all of the cabinets made that year. They all had the RCA Victor decal. Some had the C-B-A decal like Dan's (and my T7-5).
When I get a chance, I'll look at my 1936 volume (1937 model year including mid-season 1936 models such as your T8-18). It probably has a photo of your T8-18. It will tell what decals that set had originally.
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