[Jake Blake]

YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!!!!

Now hear this :

ALL voltages perfect. . . I get 370 at one side of the HV secondary, 369 from the other side of the secondary, and 5.1 at the rectifier filament terminals.  . . .  6.6 for all the other filaments.  Perfect !

I guess I don't know a big hole from a small hole Terry .  Flipping it over must have confused me.

[mikethedruid]

Good to hear, buddy. Remember, "Erare humana est." Glad to hear the voltages are good. I'm looking forward to hearing, and seeing, more about this restoration.

[Jake Blake]

Thanks Mike !  Yea, I was trying not to be disappointed ( again).  I'm real glad I was talked into checking them again.  

[Jake Blake]

A few other notes on this 610 :

It has THREE  Solar 16 mfd, 500 volt metal can electrolytics,  even though the schematic calls for
(2) 8 mfd, and (1) 16 mfd. 
 
One of those 16 mfds is not connected.

Another of the 16mfds shows some overheating at the top.

There's a Solar  8 mfd,  cardboard tube dry electrolytic capacitor, and a 10 mfd Solar dry electrolytic  cap under the chassis.  These appear to be a second round of filter replacement after whomever put the (3) Solar 16 mfd cans in. ( I wonder where all the missing Philco cans are, . . . there must be millions discarded. )  The paper 8 mfd appears to replace the FIRST metal can filter cap on the schematic, but was not  connected correctly, (with it's negative side connected to the chassis, instead of  directly to the center tap of the high voltage secondary).  It's positive side was connected to the positive side of the 16 mfd caps that was connected directly to the rectifier.
There is some other sloppy connection hanging loose that involves the field coil .

I guess this chassis is not-so-unworked over, as  the cabinet is.  I plan on getting all those cap values accurate again .  I would like to get a hold of 3 Philco cans, (even if they're not the proper values), just to replace the alien Solars just for looks.

[mikethedruid]

When you are ordering the electrolytic condensers, you might want to go for 600 Volt ones. These days they are small enough so they don't pose any problems, and they give an extra margin of error. Be careful with the polarity of the condensers. at least one of the originals had the can (negative) isolated from ground because the negative was not to ground. Others here more familiar with this particular circuit can advise you better on this. Don't be afraid to use a 20 MFD for the 16 MFD and a 10 MFD for the 8 MFD, they will just give better voltage filtration.

[Jake Blake]

Yes, bud...I've already spotted the 600 volt versions on JustRadios website, and I agree, ..I'll be getting them.

I have noticed the one insulated can, and I have an issue to bring up later about what this specimen has, and what I see on the "data sheet" vs. whats on the "chassis parts sheet" .   I do want to put them back the way Philco intended.

[Jake Blake]

Before I put this thing on the shelf for a while, I want to see the dial lit up. I think they are soooo cool! . . .(or maybe I should say warm! )

I've  read in these pages a while back on what to buy to restore the insulator in those sockets, but I can't remember where. If anyone remembers that thread,   I'd appreciate a shout out. Thanks.

[klondike98]

I believe you are thinking of the shop talk "techniques" article in the Philco Library: https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...lot-lamps/

[Jake Blake]

"I believe you are thinking . . . "
 
Yes!  Thank you Bob!  

[mikethedruid]

Jake, when you get to replacing the electrolytic condensers, go by the Philco schematic for values. Don't follow some later on replacement values. They may have been done during World War 2 and be whatever the repair guy could get his hands on. I ran into a similar problem with all three electrolytics on my T8-18 I just did. As I mentioned before, it is OK, actually good, to go up a little in MFD, but never lower.

[Jake Blake]

"Jake, when you get to replacing the electrolytic condensers, go by the Philco schematic for values."

Yes sir.  It has three Solar 16 mfd cans in it, but it's supposed to have two 8s, and one 16. Even if I put the new replacements under the chassis, I want to try to find three Philco cans to replace these, just for looks.

[Ron Ramirez]

Looking for cans is a "Wanted" ad, please place this request in Wanted Ads. Thanks.

Post above edited to comply with Phorum Rules.

[Jake Blake]

"Post above edited to comply with Phorum Rules."

Sorry.    I do like to abide by rules. I'll put one there.

[Jake Blake]