[morzh]

Today I received it.
Coveted by many, the CD880 by
I guess there are two of them, this and Marantz CD94MKII, that are next to impossible to get here. There are more Marantzes in Europe.

I saw this one, the price wasn't right for the condition....I made an offer...it got ignored.....long story short, the price dropped and I took it.


The exterior has some signs of age and usage.

....the seller ... he actually wanted signature, and the mailwoman made me approach her, so I
had to go home, get a pen....she put the slip on the driveway, I took it, signed it....gave it back at two arms  length.

The box did not look too good, no obvious damage, but mushed a bit, and the size is totally inacequate.
Inside (the unit is close to 20 lbs) was one layer of bubble at the bottom and one layer of peanuts on top.

I photographed it. Just in case.

Then I took the unit out, washed it with plenty of precious alcohol....

The seller mentioned the door needs "a little help opening".
Well..the little help means "pull with nails of both hands on both sides".
But it does open.

There is a bit of display plastic separation, not mentioned in the description.

   

But the display seems to work.

The ultimate test, put Lynyrd Skynyrd CD in, hooked up.....the thing plays rather well.

Now I will have to open it, take care of the door opening, see if it might want a recap (over 30 years old.it might).

Gave the seller a piece of my mind about everything.

[morzh]

Also, when today I put the player on the bench to open it, I saw a dent on the back, also not described in the sale. There were photos of the back but they were of  evry low quality and high granulrity, so the dent wasn't visible either.
   
   
Here it is. Around the screw. I think the rear panel might be dented.
I am waiting for the seller response before I open it. My opinion, had I known of these, I wouldn't buy it for the amount I paid, there were better specimen at that price I saw in the past.

[morzh]

For three days I did not receive any communications back from the seller.
So I wrote him one last time (I usually write using "other" reason, which does not trigger any eBay procedure....give seller a chance to respond) saying that I had been trying to reach him, and there are problems, and next time I will use "item not as described" reason , which would trigger the procedure, and in the past sellers asked me to not use it).

Today I got the response, the guy apologized profusely, he had a family emergency, and was away, and asked his nephew to pack which he admits was a mistake.
I expressed my understanding.
We had a pleasant excange; Long story short I got $150 refund.

So....now that I am keeping it, I could try to dig in and try to fix that bay door.

[Phlogiston]

Let us know what you think of this.

I have always thought that most of the CD players I have are just - -ok. Most of the DVD players, used to play CDs are slightly worse.

I would really like to find a CD player that has a remote controlled vol out level controlled by the remote (since none of my tube amps have remotes). I have an old Sony with remote, the one with a 10 disc cartridge, but it has trouble with rewriteable disks and, really, all discs. I think the laser is getting weak.

[morzh]

Some CD players are just superb.
But of course so e CD records are not that great so no amount of greatness of the CD player would help.

This one is considered one of the best ones.
Of course I will have to look into the recapz: the electrolytics are all 30+ years old.

[morzh]

Is there anyone who has any experience with CD drive mechanics?

[morzh]

So.....

This is turning out to be a bit more of a project.
I mostly put the whole process on AK forum as I had questions about belts, lubes etc so it could be seen there, but since today I delved into some hardware I will copy some here.

So....tried to remedy another thing.
As I said, the seller refunded me some dough due to a couple of undeclared defects. One of the runs deeper than just the dent in the back.
I looked at the power suply, and here is what the displacement of the heatsink resulted in.
   
   

As could be seen, heatsink is touching the pins of an LDO. What saved it was it is anodized and so nonconductive.
The screw moved and rammed into the board making the hole oval.
I moved the heatsink back, realigned it and screwed to the board.
Then I took two pieces of wood, vice and straightened the backplate.

   

So, as long as I am at it...
I noticed the two larger electrolytics (6,600 uF 35V) seem to have fresh solder under them.
I wonder if they were at some point replaced.
The caps are ELNA, same as many others that are factory installed, so perhaps it was done in an authorised repair facility, though the reason escapes me so far. Also not possible to establish the tine of the repair. The aluminum cans are not going to have datecode on them.
   
   


Tomorrow I will probably start compiling electrolytics list to order.
Methinks with Mouser it will set me back about $100.
Not sure I need to replace all, but that one 3,300uF cap I showed before bothers me, I do not know if it leaked or is glued.

[morzh]

Today I took the boards off and ordered all the electrolytic caps from Mouser.
Elna no longer makes all the caps that it used to, so....I just went with hi-temp long service hours high ripple caps. I doubt they, if good quality, really affect the sound as some claim.
Plus most are bulk caps on logic or filters in Power supply.
I replaced 6800uF 35V with 10000uF, they are the same exact size and in main bridge filter the more the better, if the diodes could withstand the inrush (should).

The schematic and the actual board have discrepancies.
Parts list has omissions.
Some parts are shown wrong, like the main rectifier's diodes.

Nothing eggregious though.
So if everything comes on 11th as promised, I will have a busy day.

[morzh]

I got my desoldering station, X-tronic 9010, a new product so I am one of the very first users, and csuccessfully desoldered a few capacitors.
The result: all caps are better that within tolerance below value (and so are sone of my new Japanese capacitors I just bought from Mouser), and some are above.
My decision for now: no recappung, will return to it in a few years If I live that long.
I spent $60 or so on the caps...it's fine.

[radiohenry]

Mike,
 What did you do about the door? I suspect all you need to do is replace the square belt and maybe lube the drive a little. Pulling the door out manually may cause timing issue. 
                                                  GL,
                                                     Henry

[morzh]

Henry,

I have gotten the belt but first wanted to make sure I need no electronics straightened out.
Also as I stated above, there was purely mechanical damage (warp in the back plate) which I seem to have tackled, the assembly will show how successfully, but this pushed the pins of one of the LDOs against the heatsing. The heatsink is anodized. Were it not, this unit would be sold to me for $20.
Due to the the escaped smoke.
So, the unit apart and the boards off, and the caps eing 1987 production, I just had to make sure they are good.
Now that I do know that, I could assemble things back, put the new belt in place, Qtip the laser, grease the places that show they were greased.....and then pray and try it out.

[morzh]

We had a little discussion on AK about the electrolytics and their degradation over time.

I always suspected that todays ele trolytics, meaning good quality ones from reputable manufacturers, are  much  better at keeping their parameters over time, especially if not subjected to operating under conditions close to max ratings.

When I first extracted a few caps from this Philips I saw absolutely none of the capacitance decrease.
This told me I will not likely see other parameters deterioration, like the ESR, either.
I even found an article where a scientist, R. Shukla, experiments with accelerated ageing; it seems from it that the ESR and capacitance corelate very accurately when age, so one of my conclusion is: with modern caps not subjected to harsh conditions, no capacitance decrease - no ESR increase.

So, when a forum member asked me if I did check the ESR I first thought of making a circuit, but then, having an advanced LCR meter , Stanford Research 750, I decided to look through the manual, and, sure enough!!! - it has C+R mode where it just shows both C and ESR.

So, having set the recommended 120Hz frequency, I put 4 caps to the test.

The First pair is

1. Cerafine 220uF 25V, year 1987, original from this CD880
2. A brand new Nichicon low impedance cap 220uF 25V, UPJ1E221MPD6TD I bought to replace it.

The Cerafine 220uF ESR is measured at 0.306 Ohm.
I compared it with a Nichicon 220uF 35V low impedance cap. The ESRs are respectively 0.306 and 0.282 ohms, that is, they are the same, which to me neand "No Degradation".

   
   


Then the second pair,

3. 6,800 uF 35V from this CD
4. A brand new 10,000uF 35V I just bought to replace the previous cap

Now, you could see how the capacitance measured is lower than declared in the large caps, both old and new. Still within the declared tolerance. The Fluke meter shows higher value and the value also seems dependent on the frequency. It went up as the frequency went up.
So, the ESR of the old capacitor of 6800uF, is even lower than the new one, a Nichcon with 3600mA ripple.

   
   

So. The caps are in essence have no degrading whatsoever.
My decision right now is: despite having bought all the caps - no recapping for now.
Will keep it original.

[morzh]

When it was time to put it back together again, it didn't work.

Upon the inspection of the power supply some of the parts on the heatsink had their soldering looking like so:

   

I hope this is it.

[morzh]

Today was the soldering day.

I first soldered every TO-220 part on the heatsink.
Then I decided to inspect the board and while looking at large connectors (transformer to board, the outputs to the motherboard) and found a few pins looking like so: (look at the top pin).

   

How did that thing work.....beyond me.
So all the connectors, including the smaller ones, got some serious touch up.
Then upon inspection I noticed some small parts pins developed indentations around them some look like cracks started to develop.
I touched them up, some sputtered or cracled at me, I guess entrapped flux. Large hole were revealed, meaning the holes are much larger than the pins, and I am not sure the barrel is metallized, but if it is, the solder did not rise yp and remained a thin layer around the pin, which made it easy to crack. Well soldered barrel does not allow that to happen.

Then since the same large connector is on the motherboard, I also removed it (AGAIN!!!) And sure enough, saw the cracked solder, so I touched all pins up, and also did touch up the sole TO-220 part on it.

Then installed the power unit, and without connecting loads measured voltages.
All voltages are fine except one, +10V. I briefly investigated: the voltages are made with 8V 7808 LDO with the common connected to GND via 2.2V zener, which makes it output 10V. But the zener needs a bias, and it is provided with a 1.2k resistor. Of which one pin seems disconnected. So the Zener is not biased and the 8V LDO outputs 8V like a good boy he is.
I decided to wait until tomorrow: removal and installation of the power supply is an onerous thing.

Genug für heute.

[rfeenstra]

Sehr gut. Morgan ist ein neuer Tag. Vielleicht hat der Schaden alle Kontakte gebrochen?