[vecher]

Can anyone supply a service manual for this ?? maybe a schematic.. NOT in German?

Any paper work would be nice.

Thanks

Skip

[RodB]

I had the same problem last spring on a Grundig 3198. Ended up plugging the words into Google Translate to get a good translation. Worked out fine.

[morzh]

I worked with German and Dutch manuals (English does not exist) while restoring Philips CD player.
Yeah, you have to type it in.

[vecher]

Great... Was hoping to avoid that.

But it is what it is.

Thanks

Skip

[vecher]

OK here are a few pictures..

[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/5031...3673_c.jpg]

[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/5031...0487_c.jpg]

Skip

[vecher]

One other question.. How do you take off the knobs ? Mine are frozon on. I tried WD-40.. But with NO success.. Is there anything else I can try? Need to get them off so I can replace the Dial strings.. The screw heads are starting to strip....

I do not want to mess up the knobs as I probably cannot find replacements..


Thanks
Skip

[morzh]

Ah...yeah. I went through that yesterday.
The knobs have a square nut inside and the set screw.
Remove the screw and put some PBBlaster or WD40 inside, and start working the knob. Rotate while pulling. DO NOT pry, you will crack the wider thinner knob behind.
Do no take off the keys, you do not need to.

PS. From the front our radios are very much the same: 5-band equalizer, and the same bands.
The rightmost key is, I think, FM and engages the second drive for the FM while releasing the main drive for the rest of the bands.
If the drive makes squeaking noises, this is the knobs front-most support it goes through. I lubed everything and it kept squeaking until I lubed the fron-most one.
PPS> I just looked at your schematic. They are exactly the same radios, meaning the chassis-wise. Mine has more speakers. And mine has the changer. But we share the chassis'.

[vecher]

Morzh, Ok thanks. My problem is I cannot turn the setscrews. They are Regular heads.. Not Allen ..The slot is starting to strip out.. In tried WD 40 but no luck .. Need something better to disolve the rust..

Skip

[morzh]

OK. My experience with two baddest setscrews I had (one recent in Thorens idler)....still, PBBlaster. Soak it. Ot keep dripping on it every day. A few days needed. It WILL eventually turn.
But be careful, do not force, do not strip the slot.


Also: use a screwdriver with as blunt flat nose as possible to fit in that slot. Sharp one will bend, or will keep sliding out and wearing out that slot. The screwdriver should be just a tad larger then the length of the slot. Large handle to apply enough torque. And, blunt, blunt - cannot overemphasize it.
Again, keep dripping PBBlaster and wait a few days.

[Eliot Ness]

+1 on Mike's advice.  PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc. are all better penetrants than WD-40, but as Mike stated, in some cases, they need a lot of time and repeated applications to work.

As far as the screwdriver they are not all created equally; there are best, better, good, and downright crappy 

If you wind up stripping the head of the screw a high quality small drill bit will be your next option, and the same as screwdrivers, they are not all created equally.

I have found the Wiha precision screwdriver set to be a good investment:

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26197-Precis...ag=mh0b-20

[morzh]

Those are the ones I have at work. I think McMaster sells them.
Excellent tools.
One thing though: for this job they have excellent tips (proper size and non-sharp tip) but very small handles, so sometimes when you need to apply extra torque that could be a problem. I wish they made the same screwdrivers with fatter handles. I would buy one on the spot.

[morzh]

Skip

I measured a cap - you will recognize it, we have the same chassis. It seems like there are lots of paper caps there.
And judging by the one I measured - they all have to go.
Take a look in my thread.

[vecher]

Ok Just did. I still cannot get the knobs off No matter what I do.. I will keep trying as I have to get them off so I can restring it.

Skip

[morzh]

Skip,

Like we said, could take few days.
Get thee to the recap; as you can see, you have your work cut out for you. It is a lot of recapping to do.

PS. The electrolytic cap bottom is inaccessible as it is under the transformer. Dang...

PPS> Could you do me a favour? That cap in the photo I have, on the right, 0.033uF that goes to the chassis (soldered to the metal wall), does the other lead go to the 6th mounting post from the bottom with three resistors soldered to it, or to the 5th?

[vecher]

I will look at mine tomorrow for you

Skip