Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

National SW-54 ISOLATED CHASSIS
#1

I have been working on a very interesting National SW-54. As many of you probably know, this set has a chassis which is connected to one side of the line. It also has a steel housing which is connected to that chassis. This can pose a serious shock hazard. Someone has isolated the chassis from line on this unit using two 120V to 12V filament transformers. The first steps the line down from 120V to 12V for the filaments of the four remaining tubes in the set and the dial lamp. The second steps the 12V back up tp 120V, which then goes through a diode bridge to provide the B voltage to the set. The 35Z5 is eliminated, and the 50C5 us changed to a 12CU5/12C5. All four remaining tubes filament circuits are rewired in parallel as well as the dial lamp. Whoever did the work did an excellent job, very neat, with the filament wiring twisted and dressed right next to the chassis. I replaced the big firecracker four section electrolytic with four modern electrolytics of higher voltage rating and slightly higher capacity, and I replaced all the paper condensers. I then aligned the set. It actually works very well. It is a little deaf on the upper band, but that is fairly normal on such a set. I am quite pleased with it, and am going to keep it since it is such a rare bird. Here are some pictures of the underside of the chassis and the chassis top, as well as the schematics. Compare the pictures to how the set normally looks using the manual which you can find here   http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/national/sw54/   
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/f5cbfcef0dee...1e7776.jpg]

[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/4cabd5eb4cc3...076d97.jpg]

[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/b62d3c6001b7...f40541.jpg]

[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/dac8ad2e4131...a6621f.jpg]
#2

Looks very neat, a clean set though not sure if you were the guy doing cleaning Icon_smile.

Hope you can pick up WPRO when you are done. Nice to see your post and hope you are well.

Paul

Tubetalk1
#3

Gee I wonder how a 12BA7 would get a long in there instead of the 12BE6.
More gain and less noise.
Maybe was a ham that wanted to use it w/other stuff (transmitter) that was
@ earth ground. I would have bought an isolation transformer but I'm no
fun!
Get a load of those diodes! 1965 again.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#4

The sch looks a lot like a Halli S-38E. The first filter cap is a 40UF which is correct for that 35Z5 tube.
#5

They must have had a reason for adding transformers other then to eliminate the hot chassis problem, switching to a floating B- would have eliminated most of the problem, and all it takes is some times, and some wire, so they needed the set isolated for some other reason, maybe to connect it to other equipment. Usually when I see things like this my temptation is to put it back to stock as 9 times out of 10 it doesn't work right, if at all, you must have got lucky in this case. What I further don't understand is why not leave the series string tubes and just use the isolation transformer for the B+? Some factory built sets were like this, Rogers and Electrohome made a few models this way, in fact I think that the tube heaters were operating from the transformer secondary in those sets, but I will have to check.
Regards
Arran
#6

A number of years ago when in Europe spotted a halli S38D with a step down transformer added. Found out later that it was factory.
#7

Might want to add a safety cap, .01UF, to the chassis after the power switch. It might make your antewnna coil more effective.

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/




Users browsing this thread:
[-]
Recent Posts
Need to purchase some accessories for restoration of my Old Philco Radio
Here is a list of resources found in our online library that you might find useful. Mike's Gobs of Knobs email addres...klondike98 — 01:46 PM
First Radio restoration
Hi Tubeman, Welcome to the Philco Phorum.  Phamily Phriendly Pfun with Phine Pholks Phull of Philco Phacts. (See a p...MrFixr55 — 12:33 PM
First Radio restoration
You could post in the WANTED ADs section here on the Phorum and see if anyone has an RF generator that they want to sell...klondike98 — 11:55 AM
Zenith H725
Good ideas, thank you Arrange and Rich. I have the adhesive aluminum foil already and can try that immediately. More ...EdHolland — 10:18 AM
Graphics for majestic 1050 dial glass.
Murf; I found this thread on the ARF, the first photo has a pretty good view of the dial glass. Regards ArranArran — 01:12 AM
Zenith H725
hello Ed, how about that speacial tape used for ducting it's like foil or how about thin piece of aluminum roof flash...radiorich — 12:19 AM
Zenith H725
Ed; One material that I have seen, but never tried for this was material for making exhaust gaskets, it's similar to ...Arran — 11:42 PM
Zenith H725
I just remembered, I have some hi temp silicone rubber material which could do the trick. Or a piece of FR4 laminate. Th...EdHolland — 08:39 PM
Zenith H725
The PSU filter cap arrived today (thank you USPS!) so I will work on that later. Meanwhile, I have the dial, speaker...EdHolland — 06:42 PM
Philco 610B oscillator wiring
Thanks Terry. After checking my notes I think I recorded about -10v at the 6A7 G4/control grid. The screen grid (G3 &...Tubester — 05:59 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2405 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 2403 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>