Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Candohm Resister Help
#1

Greetings All,

This is my first post to this site and I am hoping someone can help me finish my Philco 20 restoration project.  I have repacked all the Bakelite blocks, replaced all the resisters, repacked the filter can, fabricated a dial lamp bracket, refinished the cabinet and replaced wiring as needed. The only thing left is this one resister.

My problem is the resister (see photo - grey ) that attaches to terminal 1 of part 25 and terminal 1 of the filter can. Terminal 1 of 25 attaches to terminal 5 of part 24 (transformer).

The resistor has the number 33-3280-1 stamped on it. I have found 33-3280 info which calls for 128 ohms but no wattage. Since these early numbers can be random in nature I am not sure of the resistance or wattage. Since this was probably added later (or different model) it does not appear on any of my schematics. To be honest, my ability to decipher this info using Ohm's Law, is unreliable.

I would appreciate knowing the ohm and wattage for this resister.

Thank you,
Fred    
#2

This Candohm is not native to the radio.
The part (probably the dead section of the wirewound part) is 1,400 Ohm.
At 18mA per tube (total 36mA) the dissipated power is 1.8W.
You might want to use 5W and up resistor.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

Measure the ohms from the base of where that gray resistor (that someone added) attaches and to the candohm post that goes to ground - scrape deep into the metal at that post and also the base where the gray resistor attaches. What does it say?
#4

I am not sure I understood. Are you suggesting I do the scraping and measuring?

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#5

Guys, that was really helpful. I was wondering why I couldn't get a reading (obviously to all but me) that the posts were too corroded. The push-pull transformer had been replaced. It's an "official replacement part" so possibly, there was a problem with the set that affected the last section of the long resister, part 25 (as you suggested). I will check the ohms tomorrow and go with a suitable replacement resistor at 5 watts. Unless you guys have any additional suggestions, I'll leave it at a greatful thanks for your help. Fred
#6

Let us know how it turns out.

This very resistor burning out in 20 is a popular thing to happen - my first 20 lowboy had exactly the same (and the only one) section open.
And the output transformer primary open. I guess it goes hand in hand.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#7

All,
I have not forgotten to post my final radio pics BUT I seem to have a new problem. It's a garble problem. I replaced the resistor noted above and (I don't think it's related - tried returning old part - then new part grounded to chassis - finally new part as noted above - no difference) now have a poorer reception with a slight garble. While I believe I have sufficient antenna attached I still get some variation when touching the volume control and get static when the chassis is grounded. I have checked all my solders and "poked" around with a chopstick for change but see nothing out of place. I would appreciate suggestions.

Fred
#8

Have you tried to align the set?

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#9

No. I understand that special equipment is needed. Could it be a ground or a better antenna is needed?
#10

Not really, a Philco 20 used what was known as TRF circuit, basically the only thing you can do is adjust trimmer/padder condensers for gain, I don't think it even needs a neutralization adjustment since it uses screen grid tubes for RF amplifiers #24s or #35s. I'm not sure how you can get the dial to track on one of these, the factory instructions would probably say.
Regards
Arran




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 60 Squealing
I have recapped and replaced out of tolerance resistors and so on. Radio plays nicely on fairly strong stations. The pro...dconant — 10:55 AM
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
Welcome Eric, I agree with Bob and far as the two main electrolytic filter capacitors did you change them yourself or w...radiorich — 11:43 PM
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
You mentioned the Philco manual and going through the check points...just to be sure we're on the same page here's the m...klondike98 — 08:13 PM
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
Interesting. I haven't seen that before.klondike98 — 07:02 PM
12' Philco
Yes I had looked for it on the web as well some time back and could not find it. I was glad to see it turned up in Ron'...klondike98 — 06:59 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Now if you had a set with a tuning light then the bulb type is important to the circuit, some sets used those prior to t...Arran — 04:58 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ok. Thanks for the correction.RossH — 03:09 PM
Model 28L
For 28 you will probably need to buy a Hammond 125CSE. Or any of the series of the power you need, with SE suffix. Then ...morzh — 02:09 PM
37-60 revision 6
I am restoring a Philco 37-60 and it shows run 6 they removed the ground from G3 of the 6K7G and put the G3 to -2.5v for...bobbyd1200 — 01:01 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Mike is correct on the bulb connection, two separate circuits. I found that by rotating the bulb and sliding it forward ...RodB — 12:19 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>