[Scott D]

Can someone please point me to a tutorial to replace the sub-chassis washers on my 37-610?  

This is something I have never done before. 

I would like to do it right the first time.  Thanks so much.

Scott

[Phlogiston]

I don't have a video, but I can contribute a few how-tos.

They are not all 3 the same. The back one is a little different than the front two (though you could probably get by with 3 that are the same).

Are you going to pull the sub chassis out? 'caus it is a little easier than trying to wedge them in with the chassis wired and in-place. That one is not as bad as a 37 or 38 690 or 116, but it will probably still make the re-cap easier.

[Scott D]

The radio has already been recapped. I didn't have the washers when I went through the radio. I really don't want to take the subchassis out at this point.

So... what's your advice with it wired in place? I removed the old electrolytic can on the front left.

[Chas]

You might try:

http://renovatedradios.com/index.php?

He should have the rubber mounts in cast urethane.

That would save time and aggravation finding pieces of rubber and fabricating some make do solution...

This a Philco page:

http://renovatedradios.com/productlist.p...ondary=114

[Scott D]

Thanks. I have the new grommets. I just need to know the best way to put them on.

[Phlogiston]

Cut the old ones off, or they will just crumble off. They are on a stud/spacer.

The back one has a 1/4" bolt with that spacer - don't throw the spacers away Remove.

This will loosen up the mounts for the front ones. While getting the old ones off is easy, even if done correctly, it is still a little squeeze to get them back in place with the new ones. Anyway, don't try to remove the stud/spacer. You have to move the sub chassis forward and/or up. I give you this choice depending on what you want to stretch on the bottom side - mostly wires.

If you can get the chassis forward, then slip on the new rubber bumpers and slide it back through the little cut-outs in the main-chassis/mount. It will still be tight. You may need to widen the space that is forward of the normal resting position (stretch the chassis apart). Then slide the sub back in.

The other alternative is to take the stretching o f the main chassis to a greater extreme to allow the sub to drop down from the top. This can usually be done without bending something - permanently.

You can also do a combo and slide the chassis forward as far as you can and then stuff the new rubber into place. Most of the time this is not as impossible as it sounds.

The back one is easy to put back in place.

So basically you are somewhat at the mercy of the wires underneath. These (hum, they seem to be either all yellow or black) have become brittle over the years and stretching and twisting them can generate a lot of crumbling.

Go easy.

P.S. I haven't done one of these this way for ages. I had to go look at my Faux Faux 37-620 for a minute.

[Scott D]

Thanks! I will give this a go on my Monday day off. I'll post the results.

[Phlogiston]

After thinking about it a little more, I must add - the band switch will also impede movement. So sliding as far forward as you can, which isn't much and then squeezing the rubber parts over the mount, is probably the only thing that is going to work.

[Tucker]

I thought this was a good illustration on that chassis. Maybe this will help;

 http://johnjeanantiqueradio.com/philco.htm

[Phlogiston]

I think that level of disassembly is what he is trying to avoid, but yes, good pictures. There is no doubt that the rubber washers should be replaced as part of the re-cap. I would also recommend replacement of any questionable (insulation) wire at the same time. It is REALLY much easier if you cut the wires in half and use the original wire to mark the location of replacement wire on reassembly. It probably adds less than an hour to the project, but can save hours in trying to replace hard to get to parts. (assuming, of course that they aren't really all yellow or black)

[Scott D]

Thanks for the extra effort and info, guys.  Hopefully, I will get to it this weekend.