Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 38-5
#1

Can anyone enlighten me on how the tuning is supposed to operate? What appears to be some sort of friction wheel just slips without turning the tuning cap. The cap turns freely without effort, but the friction wheel ?? just slips. 

TYIA,

Steve
#2

Got a pic of what you are describing?

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

Thanks for responding Terry, I'll take a pic tomorrow and post.

Steve
#4

    Pics showing where the problem lies: When turning the tuning shaft the little wheel does not transmit motion to the bigger wheel.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#5

Unfortunately I don't have any '38 Philcos with that tuning scheme around.
I would take a run over to the hardware store and check the O ring dept. Look for something that fit will over the large 1/2 moon section and that will fit between it the the small drive shaft and provide some friction.
Length isn't too important, it will need to be long enough to cover the 1/2 moon and a little more. You'll have to cut it and glue ends together, super glue should do the job or maybe you fit them into the 2nd crimp on the 1/2 moon.

Good Luck!

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#6

Thanks for the idea Terry, my tuner is now working! Now I have another question: can I, for checkout and alignment purposes, temporarily replace the shadow meter with a 1K resistor? I see that the 38-4 (without shadow meter used a 1K instead in the circuit). 

THIA, 

Steve
#7

1000 ohms is fine.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#8

I finally had time to get back on the radio to check voltages. It's amazing what happens when the RF tube has B+ voltage! This set sounds almost good enough to skip the alignment, but I think it will do much better yet if I twiddle the screws a bit. Thanks all for your help!


Steve
#9

Well if you feel the urge to twiddle do use a generator and counter or digital rx check the calibration or the generator. If your going to twiddle twiddle smart.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#10

Terry,
I do have a generator and an accurate counter, and an o-scope if needed. I haven't been to too many rodeo's, but this isn't my first. 
Thank you for your help!


Steve
#11

Terry,
I was way out in left field on the tuning system, it turns out after watching a Utube vid of the 38-5 BOTH leaves of the tuning mechanism belong in the groove shown in my picture. I caught a quick glimpse if it in the vid, and thought to my self "you dummy!" Oh well, live and learn! Also I was unable to resist the urge to "twiddle", and after a full alignment the radio is HOT on both bands!
Thanks for your input,

Steve
#12

I don't have a lot of '37 and later sets around unless there is something unusual about it. Not a big fan of the chassis in chassis sets or the '39-'42 rubber wire ones.
I did look around to see if I could find a pic of the 38-5 dial drive. But didn't see anything that was really up close.
Glad to hear you got the dial drive sorted properly and chassis all tuned up! Might try to give wtww a listen @ 5085kc around 8pm. just be careful they might melt your shadow meter... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WTWW

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




Users browsing this thread: 5 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Note that no power cord, power switch, or power transformer switch are shown. That (along with my experience with full s...DaleHCook — 07:09 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
A pair of wire strippers can give you an idea of what the existing gauge of the wire leads are in the IF can, I think it...Arran — 06:07 AM
My last cabinet for this year
Hello Dan, That is really beautiful what great looking radio you have ! I have friends who live in Calgary and the wea...radiorich — 01:51 AM
Philco Predicta Siesta picture over time getting dimmer
I found that the wire insulation was burnt.  The fly back needs corona dope! Why would someone put that there?Platinumblonde36 — 01:09 AM
Philco Predicta Siesta picture over time getting dimmer
This is what it looked like beforePlatinumblonde36 — 01:01 AM
Philco Predicta Siesta picture over time getting dimmer
Platinumblonde36 — 12:58 AM
Philco Predicta Siesta picture over time getting dimmer
Platinumblonde36 — 12:57 AM
Philco Predicta Siesta picture over time getting dimmer
I'm finding some strange things in my set and for the most part it's also original, so I need to start going over everyt...Platinumblonde36 — 12:55 AM
12' Philco
Not anymore Mike. Andre The Giant Born: May 19, 1946, Coulommiers, France Died: Jan 28, 1993 (46 years), Paris, Fran...RodB — 11:53 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Renovated Radios do carry what you need. As for the voltage, a wire should be at least 300V-rated.morzh — 11:13 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 4084 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 4083 Guest(s)
Avatar

>