Crosley 5V2 - next project
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Christmas from my wife was a 1934 Crosley 5V2 to restore. Its in relatively decent shape I think. As far as I can tell the finish is original and I'm debating whether to completely refinish it or just try to modify it a bit to clean it up and restore the clear coat. The previous owner said it was making noise and squealing so the power transformer goop at the back edge of the chassis may not be as bad as it could be. The knobs are not correct so I'll be looking for some, maybe Kutztown in May? Should be a fun restore and it will go nicely with the Crosley 173 that I did last year!
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/koea63dscyj8sz....jpg?raw=1]
Crosley Fiver Deluxe 5V2
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/89ealjpz9fjz4k....jpg?raw=1]
Back side
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0gmglxa6476zxw....jpg?raw=1]
Crosley 173
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That 5V2 is an interesting set, but be careful, I think that strip on the top is photo-finish. Your 173 sure turned out nice!
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
(This post was last modified: 12-31-2020, 06:14 PM by Eliot Ness.)
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Thanks John. I've read conflicting things on other forums that it is/isn't photofinish. Looking at it I don't think it is but time will tell... Just a bit of surface rust on the chassis along with missing tube shields.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/yrnhzvojrr30yf....jpg?raw=1]
Obviously someone has worked on this in the past and I think those Dublier caps are still available so probably relatively recently.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/i1jt4mscbd6tm6....jpg?raw=1]
Also looks like one of the trimmers had some problems. I don't see the trimmer screw anymore...will have to look closer at the circuit to see what's going on. The set was reported to be squealing and making noise but not tuning in stations. I have not powered it up.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/k06xfjnygn92y2....jpg?raw=1]
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Green dial is way cool.
Paul
Tubetalk1
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This is going to be a little more difficult than I had hoped for. The candohm resistor is bad and it is buried under other components...of course. It is #39 and 40 (8.5K and 25k ohms) on the schematic.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/j2afv5jl1n2aub....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v47nqmzqhu38mf....png?raw=1]
So my thinking is that a couple of 5 watt resistors should do the job of replacement. Here's my thinking (Mike, counting on you or Terry to correct me on this).
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4mthg1l9xbhszv....png?raw=1]
So the max voltage across that should be 240v which gives a max current of about 700 milliamps. That yields about .4 watts for the 8500 ohm resistor and 1.2 watts for the 25k resistor. I'll probably use two parallel 18k 2 watt metal oxide resistors for the 8500 replacement and a 5 watt 25k for the other. Sound about right?
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Back to working this radio. I don't have it electrically working right yet but have started restoring the cabinet. Some folks here are really skilled at cabinet work but I'm still in the neophyte stage. I've been watching videos by Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration on youTube. He has a nice calm style of telling you what he's doing and why that I find entertaining and informative.
This cabinet was in pretty good shape except for one side that had bubbled veneer that someone had pushed some glue into to try and get it to lay down again. I felt I needed to get the veneer off in order to properly get it reglued and flat. I have not yet decided whether to reuse the veneer pieces that I took off or continue my learning and try putting down new veneer. Let's get it off first.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9omqrr0ai0xes....jpg?raw=1]
I felt it would be easier to get at the veneer if I took the bottom molding off. It too had some extra glue in addition to the hide glue that was probably originally used. It took some heat gun, a little moisture on the newer glue and some wedges to work the piece loose.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kc4u8hifmnf9gg....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/l2cbosbj7253dj....jpg?raw=1]
With the end of the veneer exposed I heated the veneer with a heat gun and worked a utility knife under it to start to lift the veneer from the base wood. Slowly working the veneer loose with heat and a putty knife it finally came off. In the places where there was newer glue (probably yellow carpenter or elmer's glue) I added a little water with the heat and that softened it up. Note...you can get that veneer to start smoking if you are not careful about the heat gun. Ask me how I know.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/g62fianp5yhxfl....jpg?raw=1]
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9j7ptwvev1k3p....jpg?raw=1]
The underlying plywood base was delaminated in a couple places so the next job was getting some glue into the layer and clamping. More later...
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<Sound about right?
Sound good. Actually what you do is add the two resistances together = 33.5K. It has the 240v across it which works out to 7.1ma and 1.7wts. Now there is current being drawn by the circuits that are connected the these resistors. I'd figure abt 1w. About 3w total so 5 is a good number.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 05-14-2021, 05:11 PM by Radioroslyn.)
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Looking good Bob
I don't hold with furniture that talks.
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I restored a similar Crosley one here. Looks like the same chassis. https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=10465
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RESISTANCE IS FUTILE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
[Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_eek.gif] Chris
(This post was last modified: 05-16-2021, 09:09 AM by OZ4.)
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Thanks guys..yes I recall that Crosley. You did a great job on it!
Posts: 5,060
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Joined: Nov 2012
City: Bandon
State, Province, Country: OR
My first attempt at reveneering continues...
Here, two of the three sections are already down and the third is in position before putting glue on the substrate wood. I debated whether to glue down one sheet and then cut out the gaps between the sections or precut the pieces and lay them down individually. I chose the latter.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zodba62053s39g....jpg?raw=1]
The last section under clamps.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gr7kpuisy4pwt3....jpg?raw=1]
Although, sometimes you just don't have enough of the right size clamps!!
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xtyajpya54d12b....jpg?raw=1]
So far, I think its looking pretty good.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4gl22wo8r7nss....jpg?raw=1]
Next, I have to decide whether to work to color/tone the new veneer to match the old or strip off everything and start over with a new finish on the entire radio. I don't believe the current finish is original. There was a piece of veneer missing from the top strip and yet the color of the base wood was exactly the same as the current finish. That makes me more willing to strip off everything and start over. More later...
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Looks great Bob! You should be proud of that.
It's funny - I have exactly the same model - with the veneer coming off the same side. Whoever worked the left side glue station was asleep at the wheel I guess.
[Image: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/5020...6307_z.jpg]
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Thanks Nathan. Do you think yours is original finish? I'm looking for a good idea of original coloring.
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As far as I can tell mine has been refinished.
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