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A question about the electrolytic caps. Parts list shows 43 as 10 mfd, 43A as 20 mfd and 43B as 20mfd.
The schematic show 43 as 20 mfd, 43A as 10 mfd and 43B as 20 mfd.
Someone put in an 80,40,20 can't use that. 43B is ok
Thanks
Jim
Spring Lake MI
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Actually, that 3 section condenser would probably have worked, although the 80 MFD section would have had to be used to replace one of the 20 MFD original condensers. Just pull it out and replace it with 3 separate ones the proper values. If you get 250 VDC rating that will be fine. You may be able to bundle them together to resemble an original "firecracker type", or just mount them on an appropriate terminal strip.
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I would follow the schematic using modern values of 22 and 12 mfd at 250 or higher voltage.
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Thanks guys just needed some input, I will install separate Ecaps. Also there is a lot of wiring to be replaced, all preliminary test have been good.
Jim
Spring Lake MI
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City: Roseville, MN
The old crumbling rubber insulation? Whenever I can I lift one end of a wire, remove the insulation, then slide on some spaghetti Insulation or heat shrink tube. It's harder to do that on the smaller chassis radios.
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City: Boston
State, Province, Country: Massachusetts
I have one of those little 6 tubers, not a bad set for what it is.
Tubetalk1
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City: Bandon
State, Province, Country: OR
There is a service tip in our Library
https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...2-philcos/ that discusses the crumbling rubber insulation for the 1939-1942 models of Philcos. The 42-322 was the very
first set I tried my hand at restoring.
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Thank guys I am about half way thru fixing and replacing wire, not a fun project. I need to get a new glass when I finish this radio.
Bob, I did go thru your restoration of this radio thanks for putting that out there.
Jim
Spring Lake MI
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The dials tend to flake, I got one at Radio Daze.
Paul
Tubetalk1