Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

38-2 Reception Problems and Motor-Boating
#1

I am very new to radios. My wife bought me a very nice 38-2 (the Holland, MI one on ebay). Cabinet just needs some polish and wax, but the radio doesn't work very well.

First of all, I have been having troubles with reception. There is a DYI antenna cable attached to the radio that doesn't seem to be doing the job (works better when I hold it and worse when I let go). What should I be using for an antenna on this?

The volume is very low. I have to crank it up to full volume, and when I find a station, it is very quiet. It makes a noise that I think is what everyone calls "motor-boating". Is there something I need to test inside that might be causing both to go out?

Does anyone have schematics or documentation that might be helpful for this particular radio?

Thanks for your help!

JonFen
#2

Hi Jon and Welcome!!!
Well you've got a nice set there. Antenna should be as long and as high outdoors as you can get it. Away from power lines and metal objects.

Sound like it's over do for some service work. Motor-Boating is usually cause by bad bypass condensers (caps), bad ground connections at ground lugs, and or missing tube shields. Would recommend replacement of all paper, Bakelite,and electrolytic caps. Wouldn't hurt to test the resistors while your in there too.

This set is a little more complicated than the average bear. If you enjoy working on old sets then it would be fun to do but it's not for the first timer.

Definitely replace those caps before you play it for any length of time as they can short and damage hard to get or replaceable parts. The good news is when you get it working properly it's a GREAT sounding set that has GREAT coverage for the shortwave band.

Service info: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/240/M0013240.htm

Terry

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

Thanks for the information and link, Terry.

I will replace those caps and hook up a proper antenna, and then, I will see how it sounds.

Great forum!

JonFen




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
Tim, nice write up and thanks for sharing !! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 02:47 AM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
Well, this was a real "Hum-Dinger" :lol: ! This will be kinda long, but hopefully it will help others having t...TV MAN — 01:55 AM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>