[morzh]

160uF, not 330uF. Anywho.

Well, the full energy of that cap was 9 joules.
Joule is a serious energy. 9 Joules over a second is 9W, and 9W could heat some measurable things to red-to-white hot state and some smoke.

BTW, James Joule was a brewer before he became a scientist; the science was a serious hobby of his, and the brewing was the profession, handed down from generations, which made his family rich. And it was brewing that lead him to science - measuring energy, temperatures and such.

And, to finalize, the capacitor is a magic thing. To charge capacitor to the energy level, say, E, the power supply needs to expend the energy of 2E. Hence the famous two-cap paradox. And the spark is that very result of it.

[morzh]

I gutted the battery. Cleaned it as best I could, then put some vinegar in it. I like using vinegar: the dry stuff is typically some salts, and vinegar is an acid, so it will dissolve it. Which it did.
Then water, soap and blowdry.

I will try to use it as a cradle for a modern battery.

   
   

[morzh]

Continuing on the battery.

I have a couple of 357 batteries, 1.5V, of a suitable size.

The battery goes into a heatshink tubing. One end is narrower, and will hold the contact spring I salvaged from the battery holders, damaged by leak. I cut the spring to a suitable height. Since it is narrower, it will keep the spring from shorting the battery, which goes with its negative towards the spring and then facing the bottom of the original battery cup, that fits in the holder.
The top part is practically open, to allow the positive contact to hold the battery down by its positive terminal (the battery case).

   
   
   


Then the whole thing goes, spring down, into the battery cup, which is already in the holder.
   
   

The voltmeter's hooks are clipped to the terminal strip that holds the holder itself and the wires soldered to it.
And then we look at the Voltmeter reading the value.

   

Of course I could've used a flatter battery, but these I already have had.

[radiorich]

Hello Mike,
Nice job on the battery holder !

Sincerely Richard

[RodB]

Yes, it's an energiser! What will you do about all that noise that pink bunny makes?

[morzh]

Rod

I thought the heatshrink would muffle it? I could add some felt around too.

[morzh]

The 680 Ohm resistors came.
Nice discontinued Panasonic 2W metal film ones. I new it was Panasonic soon as I looked at the bill: the P/N started from ERG.

So, from the electrical point, that was the last piece I needed.

[radiorich]

Hello mike,
nice job !!
Sincerely Richard
P.S. I have noticed a lot through hole parts being discontinued !

[morzh]

Rich

No, they usually simply replace them with something a bit updated. Well, I mean, yes, there are some that are going away.
Like some TO-251 type or similar large power bi-polars and MOSFETs somehow are going away, while their SMT counterpart (same case with formed leads for SMT soldering) are still there.

[radiorich]

Hello mike,
Yes, I have bought some adapter boards to convert through hole parts to SMT when I am repairing older stereos .

Sincerely Richard

[morzh]

No, I acrtually need them as T-hole. They are used in one of our product I developed, and They use less board space. I like SMT, but they will take 4 times as much board area.

[morzh]

As I was about to get to alignment, after having installed the tuning cap assembly back, it suddenly occured to me that I never looked inside the tuner assembly.
Sure enough, there were two caps and one resistor. One of the caps and the resistor were easy, but the second cap was not to be reached. It went deep inside the box.
So I had to take it apart, for which I had to remove the tuning cap assembly. Not to complain, it was easy, two screws.

Tthis is how the originall one looked with the lid open.
   


This is fully open.

   
   



And this is after recap and with a new resistor (it was 28K i/o 15K)

   

Now it is ready to be reassembled.

[radiorich]

Hello mike,
Wow that one part was buried in that unit . So there are times when using these come in handy like areas where I don't want to desturb parts or leads
mike !

   
I have a huge stash of NOS ones but I make my own using a pinvise and tiny  number drill bit .

Sincerely Richard

[Arran]

Rich;
  When it comes to power resistors i think through the hole style will always be available since they typically like to leave a space between the body of the resistor and the board for ventilation. In truth anyone will make anything as long as there is a demand for it.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Rich,

If I truly do not want to disturb the solder joint, I simply make a hook-to-hook and then solder over.
This Kwikette is a nice thing. But it won't fit everywhere: in my case the cap (fairly fat) had to be put near the connection and then the lead bent pretty close to both the joint and the cap itself.
And, as you said, it is fairly easy to make one's own, from a solid hook-up wire and anything thin cylindrical, like the drill bit you mentioned.