[morzh]

I think my radio was Philco 111. Certainly not Japanese.
If I am not mistaken, it had a roller wiper, a wheel that rolled around the resistive element.
Or maybe it was some other Philco...but I never had to disassemble and clean a Japanese pot.
Good old American radio it was.

[morzh]

My problem is, I do not necessarily know the name of certain fasteners.
I was looking for grommets and eyelets, but had zilch.
Went to Michales, nothing. So was the Harbor freight.
So was Amazon.
Eventually I came up with my own name, "hollow rivets". This worked, and I was offered things that looked usable, with that exact name.
But then, along with this, I was offered holster eyelets, that are the same things I am looking for, and longer length, which was what I could not find in eyelets/grommets.
So I found exactly what I need, with the setter tool, and a 50pcs of #8 eyelets of length 9 and as many of length 12 (8 and 10mm) plus the setter together is $23 on Amazon, and will arrive apart tomorrow and Monday. Which is OK: tomorrow I will be trying to get my family on the cruise ship, while the New York Marathon is on, and this will be a tall order, and I will be tired afterwards.

Provided I did not destroy the other things in the process, itr might work. If not, I will try to fit some insulated sockets that I have.

[radiorich]

hello mike,
I am with you there sometimes I don't know all the names either and find mcmaster carr and grainger very useful also I use a 3d cad program called fusion 360 it has a libary of Mc master carr items.

Sincerely Richard

[MrFixr55]

Hi Folks,

BTW, Kirk (Old Restorer) has one of these 37-604 radios in his collection, I believe it is for sale. Pix or ARF website. Unfortunately, I am completely full up, still sorting through my son's junk, and if I bring in one more thing, Ms. Fixr will be changing her last name and MY address!

[morzh]

Yes I saw that. If I knew, I'd probably try to arrange for getting it myself. But I have just got one.
Which does not mean I cannot have another....

[morzh]

Successfully riveted the sockets.
But. That hard dried up plastick that it was coated with, and which was already cracked, fell off. Which is probably good: I will use some thick plastic or silicone tubing.

   
   
   

[Arran]

Mike;
That black "plastic" was probably rubber tubing once upon a time, but like most rubber products, U.V, ozone, and heat turn rubber into plastic. Another item your Philco has in common with Rogers radios, they too liked to put rubber sleaves over the shells of the pilot light sockets, half the time chunks fall off when you try getting the bulb out. Those eyelets and that tool is useful to know about since Philco liked to install their sockets the same way, and if someone mangled the tube shield base, needing replacement, using eyelets is the only clean way to do it.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Arran

When I just got the tool out, first I thought it was not going to fit at all.
Then I realized the flaring rod was fitting, to exact size, that is I had to push it inside, it was rubbing as it went in, but it did not expand the sleeve. Literally within 1 mil.
Then the anvil was not usable fir the socket further away from the bracket. Simply did not fit. I simply situated the eyelet rim on the anvil of my large vise, and then hammered onto the rod.
For the socket closest to the bracket, I could use the anvil.
This said, it did not mangle the eyelet rim much at all; maybe it is important for the projects where the part is used according to its direct purpose, and aesthetics does matter, but in this case it does not and is barely noticeable anyway.

As for the rubber, the sole purpose of it is insulating the socket electrically from the chassis, and so even 3-4 layers of black tape would do.

[radiorich]

Hello Mike,
nice job on the eyelets I have rivet and eyelet tool made by Keystone electronics.
i will have to see if they have that size of eyelets .

Sincerely Richard

[morzh]

I bought HolsterSmith setter and also the eylets by them.

I think even #8-9 length would do, but then when they are being put together, there is a lot of play initially, and the longer one (#8-12) from the kit was easier to work with as it has more protrusion, and, when flared, goes exactly where needed.
The Philco rivet problem was, the flared part was so small, and the rivet itself so thin, it readily separated into a thin ring and the rest of it, when I just touched the bulb. The second socket lasted a bit longer, but also separated without a major effort on my part.

[Arran]

Mike;
I had an issue with installing eyelets in a pair of wiring panels in my Roger 10-60, in the service literature they identify them as resistor boards even though they also have capacitors on them. They used a style of resistor I had never seen before, they had spade shaped terminals rather than wire leads, and they used these spade terminals to connect many of the capacitors, and some of the wiring from elsewhere in the set, so taking them out left empty holes in the resistor boards.
So thinking of what to do I came up with the idea of installing eyelets in the holes, but the tool I have is shaped like a pair of pilers so would not reach the holes in the center of one of the boards. I ended up using a drift that had a shoulder very similar to the flare on the eyelet tool, and alternated between using it, and a flat faced drift, they worked, and they put the eyelets in tight enough that they did not spin around in the holes.
Your project is inspiring me to work on my Canadian Westinghouse 780-A, which I have to "re-restore" electrically, after two other parties had at it. Whilst it does sort of works, I don't like the quality of the "restoration", clipping off leads, and tacking on new components onto them, or piggy backing onto leads of other components is just not the way I like to see things, especially when they ignore the routing of the original parts. I say that it sort of works but it has an interference problem, plus a low frequency oscillation when you turn it to the phonograph position.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

So, I tried various heatshrink tubing pieces, and, even though I think it could work, it is inconvenient. It had to be cut at the top rim of the socket, as otherwise the bulb would not go in. But that exposed the metal with very think insulation (which is what heatshrink is).
So I ordered some 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD silicon tubing, and made this

   

This made fairly thick insulation, close to the original, plus it would not start pulling off the bottom due to some incoming wires' thickness over the socket.

The result is this:

   
   


Plays well, and now ready for aloignment. Hopefully, tomorrow.

[radiorich]

Hello mike,
nice job on the lights !!

Sincerely Richard

[morzh]

Well, it's been through alignment.

I am charging the camera battery, and will make a short video when it is charged and the radio is assembled back.


Before assembly, no antenna, in the basement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAPFsyIPYKM


After assembly, 3' antenna, in the basement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAPFsyIPYKM


PS. I decided to replace the second shaft bushing by the same one I used to replace the first one. The reason is, the original would simply fall off if the radio was inverted, and even without it, it somehow would start getting out of its socket during operation. So the nylon one went in, it sits well, does not get out and fits just fine.

[Arran]

Mike;
That set seems to be working fairly well for a little 5 tube AC/DC, even on short wave, though I can't imagine that the selectivity is that great on the latter with only one SW band.
Regards
Arran