[Tennangler]

I did not read continuity across any of the 3 connections on the power switch when I turned the radio on. Does that mean the switch is bad or very dirty? I've deoxited it several times.

[morzh]

Well, why don't you simply put your ohmmeter across the switch ans this will be your answer?

[Tennangler]

Can I put a jumper across 2 of the pins on the power switch to see if I get power to the radio? If so, which 2 do I jump?
Can the switch be repaired? I dont dont have a spare one.
James

[morzh]

Are you implying you do not have a digital multimeter or cannot measure ohms in any common way?

The switch is likely OK as 117 tube, according to you, glowed and went out. Which is normal. Also 117 is not part of the filament string, it is directly connects to the AC across that switch.

I consider it extremely awkward borderline impossible to troubleshoot things without a multimeter. If you do not own one, a cheap chinese one on Amazon is on an order of $20. I seriously suggest you get one, if you do not have it.

[Tennangler]

I do have a multimeter. When I measured across the switch pins I got no continuity. I thought the switch was bad till the 117z3 tube glowed when I last turned it on. I may have gotten bad connection with my mm probes. I measured again and got 21 ohms with the switch off. Open with the switch in the on position.
I also got voltages at some of the test points but not correct ones. The guide indicates switch 100 and 101 or the 117z3 tube from my readings.
I dont know the pin number system of the ac/battery switch.

[morzh]

Could that be that your On/OFF positions are switched? Not sure how it is possible, as it is part of the potentiometer.
Yes you could short it, but I would try to take a good look at the pot, possibly open it (with most it is not a big deal).

[Tennangler]

Can someone tell the pin numbers on the ac/battery switch?

[RodB]

Does this look like it might be correct?
   

[Tennangler]

Rob, that does look right.
 As it turned out I was measuring voltages on that switch and moving it. To my surprise the radio started working.
It appears I have an intermittent switch.
I know now that if I wriggle the ac/battery switch I can get it playing. I'm not sure if I can do anything else to make the switch stay in the correct position. I'm not going to the trouble of changing it out. I may spray a little more deoxit in it.
Thanks all who replied for the guidance.
James

[RodB]

Quite often the plunger for the switch is held in the AC position by routing the power cord through a slot in the cabinet. Those switches are always a problem.

Additionally, I usually replace the 117Z3 with a 1N4007 diode, add resistor in series with r100 and a 9 volt zener diode for protecting the filaments. This results in just about zero heat dissipation and instant-on (no warmup).

[Arran]

I would keep the 117Z3 unless the tube is defective, a slow warmup is not a bad thing for the B+ voltage, filter caps and all, though the tubes are pretty much instant on anyhow, in this set the battery tubes don't get their filament voltage until the rectifier tube heats up. Heat isn't really an issue in a battery tube portable, and even without the 117Z3 heater there is still the filament dropper in series with the battery tubes. If you have never worked on a tube radio before a 49-607 is not the easiest to start with, there is that AC-battery switch, and there is a shallow chassis where the speaker is mounted to the underside of, so the components tend to be clustered around the outside. That being said when you get one working they are a good performer thanks to the tuned RF amplifier stage
Happy Christmas
Happy New Year

[Tennangler]

Rodb,
Are you talking about the hole in the side of the cabinet? If it is I dont understand how that will keep the switch in the ac position.