Hello, I just got a 37-116 code 122 so I guess I am a member of the 37-116/38-116 club . This thing sure is heavy. I removed the chassis to examine and test the tubes. What a beast. It will be a challenge to work on that chassis. All the tubes tested good except the 6F6. I removed the bottom plate and found all to be original with the exception of an addition of an external phono jack and switch. My first question is how best to remove the speaker. The grille cloth is just about gone so I see that cone in there. I bet that speaker is heavy as well. Is that wood brace holding the back of the speaker glued in? I was thinking maybe I could lay it down and remove the brace and then pull the speaker straight up.
I have restored 2 of these a few years ago. I believe you can un-bolt the speaker and tip it out of position to remove. the wood base is probably glued in. these are great, good sounding radios! They are not, however the easiest to rebuild. The tuner section can be a bit of a challenge, especially since the police band oscillator coil is often open because of corrosion. I had to rewind these coils on both of the 37-116's I did. Do not be discouraged, however. The performance is well worth the patience need to fully rebuild the radio! I can see that the cone suspension for the passive radiators has deteriorated. Perhaps someone has a solution for that. Mine were still intact, though beginning the deterioration process.
Here is a link to the tread for one of the 37-116 radios: philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=19530
Also: philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=21139
A much shorter thread on the second 37-116
I do believe there are a couple of other threads on these radios as well. Do a search.
OK, since the cloth is missing, you could clearly see that wood cone in front of the speaker.
If you have to remove the speaker, put the radio straight down and after removing the bolts, lift STRAIGHT up. Or you will have a big gaping hole in your speaker cone.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Hi Dan, yes this chassis is a brute. When I got mine 10 years ago, I found this chassis jig to be quite handy. After mounting the chassis to it you can adjust if for multiple angles to work on the radio. I purchased it from a member on here but can’t recall who that was! Have fun, this radio is a lot of work, multiple Bakelite blocks to restuff but no big deal, the tuner on a separate chassis that is crammed full, the #2 band oscillator coil that will most likely need to be rewound and a tedious alignment procedure for the high fidelity IF and AFC system. As for speaker removal, after removing the nut and bolts, I was easily able to remove it while still upright by holding it back as far as possible and carefully bringing it up and tilting it. It is a great sounding set once done!
It appears that the speakers are mounted on the baffle which probably separates from the cabinet with wood screws. You may have to remove the main speaker just to get it out of the way. The grille cloth will attach to the front of the baffle. Be sure to mark the center of the opening on the baffle before removing it. Makes it easier to get the cloth on correctly. Maybe Mike has some comments on removing the baffle.
I never had to remove the baffle. My grill cloth was not exactly pristine, but not too dirty or ripped.
This said, often times Philco baffles are held to the front panel by several screws; like in 570 grandpa clock.
This holds speaker and the cloth.
See if there are any screws in the corners/along the perimeter of the baffle.
And, yes, to replace the cloth you must remove the speaker. Most everywhere, not just here.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
I am trying to get a capacitor list together for ordering. I'm stuck on the 3mf Ecap #62B. Philco parts catalog says this is a 475 volt cap. I have been looking on Mouser but I don't find anything in that voltage range or higher. What are you guys using for the 3mf. I will be using a 2.2mf for the 2mf at 450 volts.
Well, think about it.
What, do you think, is 62B? It is a filter, a power filter for bias divider. An RLC filter, R124, L12a and C62B.
As a filter, what does it matter if instead of 3uF it is, say, 6uF or even 10uF? It doesn't.
So, get your favorite value and get it there.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
I see there are 3 passive radiators on eBay for sale that will amount to about to 25.00 each. Is this a worth while purchase or would that be a waste of money. I did manage to repair my damaged one. I have my eye on another 37-116. Might pass on it though.
No where near ready to start the the restoration on this set yet.
. This thing sure is heavy. I removed the chassis to examine and test the tubes. What a beast. It will be a challenge to work on that chassis. All the tubes tested good except the 6F6. I removed the bottom plate and found all to be original with the exception of an addition of an external phono jack and switch. My first question is how best to remove the speaker. The grille cloth is just about gone so I see that cone in there. I bet that speaker is heavy as well. Is that wood brace holding the back of the speaker glued in? I was thinking maybe I could lay it down and remove the brace and then pull the speaker straight up. 
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