[Paul Philco322]

Everthing goes at once, maybe it's the cold weather, I have had 2 dial strings break and no my little RCA is having dial light issues. I did the easy thing and swapped the bulb when the existing one did not light. So the replacement is slow to light, then flickers, and out. I don't think its the socket, most of my #51 bulbs are from pulls, so could be bulb. 

Thinking of cleaning and a little gun oil on base of another bulb, I have a few 35Z5s, I could change out the rectifier and see if that helps, Clean the rectifier tube socket? The set is recapped and been playing awful well. Small problem, any thoughts?

Paul

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

I'd try replacing the bulb first and if that doesn't do it, then change the 35Z5 and see if the problem goes away.

[Paul Philco322]

Upon review I think the spring in the bulb holder is gone, bulb will not rest tight. Are there sockets availailable or do you need to fix spring?

Paul

[morzh]

Paul

Ron had an article on a socket rebuild.
I have just recently rebuilt 2 or 3 of them.
If the spring is gone, you could easily find a similar one, I think.
But you will have to extract the thing and use some sort of nylon washer (I bought a boxfull to use just one, but it was cheap enough as a kit on amazon).
If, of courtse, we are talking of the same type soket.

[MrFixr55]

Hi Paul,

The spring from the socket is going to be the same diameter as those from the dashboard of cars from the 50s and 60s. for what that is worth. You can try AES for a socket even to just steal the spring. With the bulb removed, just pushing up on the wire for the center contact of the bulb should raise the contact and wafer from the socket body, exposing the spring.

Remember that the shell and bracket of the socket must be isolated from the rest of the radio as the tip and the body of the base of the bulb are more than 100VAC above chassis ground level.

As for the 35Z5, I would think the only fault that the tube would have that could cause this is that the filament section in parallel with the bulb shorts. I would think that is rare. The more common failure is the filament section in parallel with the bulb opening because the bulb is burned out. With the bulb burned out, that section of the filament will run hotter.

If the socket shorts, the bulb will go out but there will likely have little effect on operation. In fact, during wartime, if the bulb and eventually the rectifier opened, the service tech would short pin 2 to pin 3, to allow the rectifier to function with the other 4/5 of the filament.

[Paul Philco322]

I am wondering what I might have to fashion a non conductive shim just to create enough of a "snug" in the socket to keep bulb in firmly. It is a bayonet base so that is a plus......Paul

[David]

Maybe some electrical tape? Has worked for me in the past an low cost. David