[dconant]

Hello, I sure hope there is someone out there that knows this radio. I am just getting started on scoping out the schematic. 

I am likely to have many questions on this radio since there has been a lot of hacking and slashing going on in there. Some mods to the wiring as well. 

The tubes are 2.5 filaments except for the 80 tube. The 2.5 filaments are all tied back to the power transformer which has terminals instead of wires coming out of it. Can I wire these from tube to tube and therefore have just one wire going to each terminal of the 2.5 terminals? Would this likely to be because of current?

[morzh]

This radio, I think, from the memory, is TRF similar to Philco 20. Same tubes and all.

Yes this could be their attempt to equalize the filaments, but I think tube-to-tube would be just fine, with the wire gauge being appropriate (if there are 3 of them, the first section would conduct over 5A per wire).
I think using AWG18-20 is just fine.

[radiorich]

Hello mike,
My Gloritone is funny the chassis is upside down !

Sincerely Richard

[Arran]

I have a Canadian version of one of these, it was made under license from U.S Radio & TV by Grimes-Phonola. The construction is very similar but Grimes-Phonola designed and built their own cabinet, and placed an escutcheon labeled "Dictator" around the dial rather then Gloritone. Dictator was the private label brand for Hudson's Bay Company radios during the 1930s and 40s, post war they adopted the "Baycrest" brand since it didn't have the negative connotation with autocratic European politicians like the Austrian Painter, or the Duce.
Anyhow it is basically a screen grid TRF circuit that they used, similar to a Philco 20, but with a single ended #45 output rather then push pull 71As, and the model 20 has an extra TRF amplifier stage. In any event I would follow the diagram with the heater wiring, it's a fairly basic radio if all of the coils and transformers test out all right. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...040710.pdf With mine I think I will replace the electrolytics with motor run caps, there is a big clamp that held the original filter caps in place, which I think were so called "dry" electrolytics, which are long gone.
Regards
Arran

[dconant]

I have got petty far along on the radio so far. My chassis is upside down as Richard says. The caps in big clamp are long gone with a dual 4 wire electrolytic in its place. I am finding some original parts (caps) are missing as well. Several wires not soldered.

I see there is a early and later version of the schematic. I can't quite figure out which one I have. Looks like maybe someone was trying to make a late version out of the early or the other way around. Best I can tell between the two is the volume control. The volume control in my radio is not original as it says Philco on it with the shaft modified. Since the Philco is 2K I would guess maybe it is wired as early version. The B- is wired directly to one of the out pins of the volume control which looks wrong to me. I'm thinking wiring as the late version.

Transformer is good (whew) as well as FC and OT.

Antenna coil has a bad winding but not sure which one it is yet. Bummer. I suspect some miss-wiring maybe burned out the one inside the coil tube. Have not got to the other two coils yet. Lets hope they are good.

The three section candohm is totally shot as well as one other single candohm. Found a 2 watt resistor in a plastic sleeve that should be 50K and it measures close to that but its painted white. Beats me why. Lots of extra long wires in here.

Since several neat parts are gone from this radio I plan to just use terminal strips with modern parts.

Arran why would you use motor run caps? I was planning on using 10MF ECaps.

[Arran]

I was planning on using motor run caps because the original electrolytic cans, which I believe were in cans, are missing, and motor run caps, if you have the space, are a more permanent replacement anyhow. I was comparing the two schematics, actually three, the one for my Grimes-Phonola made "Dictator", and the two U.S Radio and TV ones, are all called a model 27 by the way, and I couldn't really see the differences other then they substituted a .6 uf cap in place of a .5 uf cap as one of the bypass capacitors in the later version. Maybe they thought there might be an oscillation problem, or maybe they got a deal on some .6 uf capacitors? The originals would have been in side of some metal boxes filled with tar, but I can't say whether they had a terminal strip or just had a bundle of wires coming out of them, it's been five years since I had the chassis out to look at it.
I didn't notice the change in the volume control circuitry until you pointed it out, on the early version, which is the same as mine, the volume control is in the cathode circuit of the RF amplifier tubes, presumably to change the tube bias, in the later version the control is in the antenna circuit. I'm not sure why they changed it, maybe a cost cutting exercise since a wire wound rheostat would have cost more, where they could get away with using a carbon pot in the antenna circuit.
Regards
Arran