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#16

Gosh. I always re-discovered how to do it, took me 2-3 minutes every time.
Now that I think of it, the c-clip is there but has nothing to do with taking this apart.
I think you just push that sprocket agaisnt a piece of wood, and it just comes out. You have to push the shaft (the tuning end where the knob goes on) in a bit before pushing the sprocket.
I hope so.

I also found this

https://philcoradio.com/repairbench/tips/svctip39.htm

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#17

Oh... That link is gold man! Thank you so much.

I'll see if I can get this thing fixed and will post the results on this thread.
#18

Hi Howard, if memory serves, and many times it doesn’t, I vaguely remember working on a Philco that had that pin you have circled in yellow with a question mark. I believe I used a magnet to extract that pin to disassemble that mechanism!

Ron

Bendix 0626.      RCA 8BX5.   RCA T64
Philco 41-250.    Philco49-500
GE 201.             Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42        Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116.    Philco 70
AK 35                Philco 46-350
Philco 620B.       Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B.         Majestic 50
Philco 52-944.    AK 84
#19

Thanks 462ron. I have it soaking right now but will test the power of my shop light magnet on the pin when it comes out.
#20

The gear on the 37-604 is exact same, but there was no pin.
The pin exists on the gear of 37-116 or those ones with robo-dial from this and the next year. But those are different gears.
As I remember, the technique was nocking the pin out. I forgot how I got it out.
I am sure a Philco doc should exist on thie gear, same as it does for the 37-116 robodial. Which BTW does have the technique for getting the pin out, and we do have that doc in our library somewhere.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#21

Well, the paint thinner didn't get the job done but some heat did.  I got it apart, got everything cleaned up, re-lubed, and then back together.  As I was putting the retaining pin back in, the vernier shaft popped out.  The ball at the end of the shaft that, along with the three bearings that sit down behind it and holds the shaft in, had separated.  I thought that it had broken off but on closer examination it appears that it is a completely separate piece.

Before I start trying to source a vernier tuning shaft I want to see if I can understand how it was manufactured in the first place.  Maybe I can fix it.

When I first looked at the shaft, I assumed that it had been machined out of one piece of metal, but it isn't.  The small metal ball shape at the end, used to retain the vernier shaft inside the course shaft, is a completely separate piece and is attached to the end of the shaft, either with solder or glue of some sort.  You'll note in the picture that the ball is perfectly round and, under microscope, shows a faint color outline that matches the rim on the vernier shaft.  The end of the shaft is hollow.  The ball does not sit down inside but rests on the lip around the top.  I don't see anything on the ball that looks like pieces of the shaft or residue of any sort.  That's part of why I think it might have been soldered.  I had to heat the unit quite a bit to break the coarse shaft loose and maybe I got it hot enough to melt solder, which would account for the clean separation of the ball and vernier shaft.  Anyway, as you can probably tell, really, I don't have a clue.

Do any of you know how its attached and have you ever heard of anyone successfully repairing it?

Thanks in advance...
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