[bridkarl]

Just got this set up on the bench for restoration. Seems intact, unmolested. Starting with standard recapping and resistor checks. Some scratches on the case.

[Paul Philco322]

I have always loved those internal antennas that look like plumbing? The stand up better than wire on cardboard or the glued in antennas around the chassis.....good luck. Paul

[MrFixr55]

I think that those antennas are a compromise, as it seems to be "tuned" for shortwave, based on its size and spacing. My 41-250 has a very similar antenna. I have never seen an antenna of this structure on a radio designed for only broadcast band.

[bridkarl]

   
Does anyone have a good picture or diagram of the bandswitch wiring? In the process of moving wiring during the recap it all just crumbled and got detached. I thought I had good photos but the one of the bandswitch came out of focus.

I’ve made some progress but still need to figure out the two wires close to the chassis - white and black as I’ve rewired them.The top two lugs on the left side of the bandswitch which I read as B1 and B2.

B2 seems to go to 15. B1 seems to go to pushbutton switches 18 - not sure where 18 physically is

[462ron]

@MrFxr, I have a 41-250 also and was told that style antenna is low impedance and is good for suppressing noise/static. It’s one of my better performing sets and was my very first Philco!

Ron

[bridkarl]

Almost finished the recap. Waiting for a part I didn’t have. 
Spent an hour today tracing wiring. Still can’t figure where the wire - marked in red- terminates on the pushbuttons.

[MrFixr55]

the wire in red and another wire go between the band switch and the push buttons to select the push buttons. the bandswitch has 3 positions, Pushbuttons (Presets) for Broadcast Band, Manual Broadcast Band and Shortwave. In addition, the manual tuning cap is a 3 section cap. However, there is no "RF amp", the usual reason for a 3 section cap. In this set, the band switch selects one or another section as the cap as an input to the mixer stage. The push buttons replace the tuning cap when the pushbuttons are selected for broadcast band.

The pushbuttons have 2 sections; the oscillator and mixer, just like the tuning cap.

Hope this helps.

[RodB]

You should see on the pushbutton assy one row of switches where the wire that is already connected goes. That connection terminal is connected to the same relative terminal on each switch, so you should see a wire running from one end to the other connecting the terminals.

The other row of switches is set up the same. One of the terminals on each switch will have a wire connecting the same relative terminal on each switch. That's the one you connect to your stray wire from the band switch. Use your ohmmeter to make sure it isn't grounded.

[bridkarl]

Thanks Rod. I’ll look at this again this afternoon.

[bridkarl]

Well, I finished the recap. I used this set of RadioDaze tubes and caps to make a neat 20/20mfd PS cap.
Worked ok although not sure it’s worth $12. Might be useful in some situations.
Radio powers up ok but no audio. Also need to redo the dial string. Still figuring out this displaced wire. The wires to the buttons all seem to properly terminate.

[RodB]

The schematic shows there should be two wires connected from the switch assembly to the B wafer of the band switch. One should be connected to B1 and the other goes to B7. You have shown us the one from B1 as the loose one. Is this correct?

[bridkarl]

B1 is the loose one yes. It was originally a black wire.

[RodB]

In the seventh photo you posted there's the switch assembly and you see the bare wire running along the assembly from one switch to the next. That's where one of the wires should be connected, probably B7. B1 goes to the corresponding wire on the other set of switches, probably on the reverse side of the assembly.

[RodB]

BTW when you are testing you should have the OFF button pressed since you will want to use manual tuning for initial testing.

[bridkarl]

Ok. Let me look this over this weekend.

As of now I’ve traced every wire from the top of chassis to underneath. See nothing amiss. The radio powers up with no drama but no audio. Someone has subbed a 50a5 for the 35a5. Correct tube on order. Fixed the dial string temporarily.

The two stray black and white wires remain a mystery. They are on B1 and B2 as best I can tell. I’m almost to the point of buying a second unit to diagnose the problem. Pulled the band switch to get a better picture.

Power switch works correctly. Filament voltages throughout and pilot light works.