Philco 38-7 CS restoration
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bandersen Wrote:I decided that had to go. First, I stripped the cabinet. Then, patched in the hole with a combination of wood and filler. Finally, some new bookmatched veneer was applied.
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No more hole 
[Image: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6077/6078...d241e6.jpg]
By the way, what cut and species of walnut veneer is that which you used, most of the stuff I have has that flowery open grain look but the stuff you have has a straight grain like it's quarter cut?
Regards
Arran
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It's quarter cut walnut from http://www.theveneerstore.com/s-152-walnut.aspx. Inexpensive, but there's no paper backing so it's very prone to curl. I used cold press veneer glue and clamped the heck out of it. Their stock varies so you might have to wait until a lot shows up to your liking.
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I masked off the whole top and recessed panel so I could spray the inner edge with dark walnut toner. It was a pain, but looks nice I think.
[Image: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6153/6148...2283bb.jpg]
I really like the way the veneer changes appearance depending on your point of view 
When I first got the set, I though the "L" was a different shade of toner.
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Thanks! Does anyone know how this chassis was mounted ? Mine came with some bolts up front holding it in place. Clearly there should be two mounts at the rear, but I'm not sure how they work. The other side of the cabinet is nice veneer so you can't run bolts through 
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[Image: http://www.bobandersen.com/images/philco...unt_04.jpg]
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Hello, it looks like the bolt holes in your chassis are where a mount would be affixed. The other side of the mount would be at a right angle to facilitate mounting to the raised portion of the cabinet.
My 19LZ has somthing like that.
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Can you (or anyone else) provide any more details on such a mount ? I can kinda make one out in the lower right near the 'A' on the transformer in the first picture below.
I found some photos of another 38-7 showing the underside. This one has a board under the chassis and I now see holes on mine where such a aboard may have been attached.
[Image: http://www.bobandersen.com/images/philco...hassis.jpg]
[Image: http://www.bobandersen.com/images/philco...erside.JPG]
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I finally have the sides prepped for toner. I'm doing the front first then the back. I find it hard to get an even coat over a large cabinet when working with just a spray can.
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It's amazing what a little toner will do
[Image: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6155/6175...5967_z.jpg]
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Keep it up! Very nice work!!
I'm afraid that I don't know your set at all, so my suggestions are just that. But the method your chassis is affixed to the cabinet is similar to my model 19LZ.
How is it going with the magnetic tuning feature on your chassis?
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This set doesn't use magnetic tuning, but I have a 37-10 console that does. Perhaps you meant concentric tuning ? I haven't actually done much work on the chassis yet crazy as that may seem. This project is part of my mad dash to refinish cabinets before it gets too cold
However, since I picked up this set I have assembled a full set of correct knobs, a good volume control and some electrolytic cans of the proper dimension to fill the holes in the chassis. I also have a spare tuning mechanism so I think I'm in pretty good shape.
The only thing that bugs me is that the metal tube bases have been mangled 
Perhaps that was done to accommodate more modern tube bases ?
[Image: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6176/6177...8e2d_z.jpg]
Another section is done. I've found it's a really good idea to spray toner in the same direction as the grain. Otherwise, you may end up with a checkerboard effect.
The changing grain orientation on this cabinet could make that a little tough to do, but breaking it up into sections is working out well.
That white stuff is just some residue from sanding the lacquer sealer. I can either clean it out or let it melt into the final coats of clear gloss.
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Yes, cone centric tuning. Jeez, my mind.....
I think that people did that to the shield bases to accomodate some of the metal tubes used as replacements.
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Beautiful work. Don't know about the chassis, if you have a good set of metal tubes, and they are correct, you could carefully drill out the rivets and lose the tube shield bases. Then make sure that pin 1 of each is not used as a tie point for something else and then ground it. Double check to see if there are any exceptions, I can't think of any offhand.
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Yes, I believe it did come with metal tubes. I like the look of the earlier glass types better, but with these manged shields, maybe metal tubes is the way to go.
I finished the sides and lower trim over the weekend. That just leaves the top edge then coats of clear and rubbing it out.
[Image: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6166/6183...3d14_z.jpg]
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Posts: 797
Threads: 42
Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
Posts: 797
Threads: 42
Joined: Dec 2008
City: Chicago, IL
I rummaged through my spare parts, and found some good tube base shields
Although it means I'll have to find the older glass type tubes, I think I'll install them.
[Image: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6022/6206...de9dfd.jpg]
I've started work on repairing the access panel with the same wood filler I used on the lower shelf.
I glued some veneer on the back to cover the holes, then glopped it on. It sands down fairly easily
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