[madghost]

It took a while but after a long winter I was finally able to get to my 41-290 and get it ready for lacquer/toner. I used one of the restorer products that disolves the finish and leaves the stain. If I had to do it over again, I would have made a stronger effort at saving the existing finish, but too late now. Anyway, the 41-290 looks as if it had a very nice combination of light and dark walnut toner applied with certain soft shading on the front grill and sides. What are the best toners to use and which colors should I get? I was thinking of using Master's Behlen light walnut and also their dark walnut to obtain the proper shading. Are Mohawk products better, and if so, which colors (tones) should I get.
Also, since I didn't use a stripper, can I get away with using sanding sealer, then clear lacquer for the base coat to fill any grain/pores, or should I go ahead and use a grain filler. Any other tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Much!

[Ron Ramirez]

As no-one replied to your original post I don't know if you have since proceeded with your refinish job or not, but...I have never used Master's Magic or Behlens, only Mohawk. I would like to try the other products. I have heard no negative remarks about either product.

I can say that I have had problems with Mohawk Ultra-Flo - serious enough that it required re-stripping and re-lacquering using a different product.

The common method of filling pores is, I believe, either using grain filler, sanding then toning; or else many, many coats of lacquer, sanding between coats. You want to apply your toners before your clear coats, though.

[madghost]

Mr Philco. Thanks for your reply. I was hesitant to use a grain filler because the shade of the filler looked like it would be difficult to match with the stain of the wood and I didn't know if the colored toner would produce a good result on the filler. So, I brushed on Deft lacquer and sanded and repeated this process a couple of times. It took a while, but through trial and error I finally got the pores/grain filled in and I beleive I got a very good likeness as to what the radio would have looked like in the 1940's. Interestingly enough, when I bought the radio at a garage sale, the previous and only owner assured me that the finish was of course original, which I was a able to duplicate after ahving to remove the finish (but not strip). The other 290's I have seen tend to be darker and others lighter. What gives? Was there that much variation from the factory in terms of finish/shading/tone?
SF/MG

[lew-g]

Mr. Madghost-
Might I inquire as to the name of the product you used to strip the finish but not remove the stain? I'm getting ready to restore a cabinet and need to remove the finish, but would prefer that it not remove the stain.

Thanks!

[madghost]

Hi. I used Formsby's (sp?) finish restorer (purchased at Home Depot). Just follow directions and it works pretty well. One thing I did learn though, if there is any way at all you can get the result you want, with out having to take the old finish off via gradations of sanding and then applying clear laquer, or by using the turpentine, linseed oil vinagar mix, do so. That's what I would have done to the 41-290, but I learned that a little lafter the fact. Hope this helps.

[lew-g]

Mr. Madghost-
Thank you very much for the advice and information.

Regards-
Lew