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Gents,
This is going to sound bizaar. I bought a Philco 41 - 226 on Ebay, it came in one piece and is fine however I do have one question maybe some can answer. Were there two versions of this radio made, a LARGE and a small size cabinet? When I opened the package I could have sworn this was a larger set (measurements of what I have unknown). Any input (or laughs) would be appreciated.
Thanks,
GB
73 de,
Gary/N9VU
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The 1941 Model 41-226C only came in the table top version. There was no console version cabinet.
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Hi Gary
Dimensions of the 41-226 from Furniture History:
Height - 8"
Width - 13-1/4"
Depth - 6-5/16"
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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mrphilco Wrote:Hi Gary
Dimensions of the 41-226 from Furniture History:
Height - 8"
Width - 13-1/4"
Depth - 6-5/16"
Mr. Ramirez,
Many thanks again for your answering my question. I still can't think of why on earth I thought this was a bigger radio. The only theory I have is that I have too many radios, and am starting to lose track. Oh well, nothing I can do about that.
Thanks again,
GB
73 de,
Gary/N9VU
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The mind is the second thing to go, eh Gary? ;)
See you at the ARCI meet on Sunday.
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Chuck Schwark Wrote:The mind is the second thing to go, eh Gary? ;)
See you at the ARCI meet on Sunday.
Now nowwwwwww, CHUCK!!
Yeah, what else is there to do on a Sunday? Nice weather predicted, and that's a good thing.
GB
73 de,
Gary/N9VU
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Thanks for the info on the 41 226. I've begun to recap the set and sounding better all the time however if you're familiar with this chassis layout there's one thing thats for certain. These are cramped quarters, in other words a small chassis.
Do any of you have suggestions on how to get at caps that are beneath wiring and other components? My own thoughts were to section off small areas and desolder items just to get to the capacitor, marking items for reference of course. I may have answered my own question. Any other easier suggestions?
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Gary/N9VU
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Carefully take pictures BEFORE moving any wire or component in the way of the cap. Lead dress can be critical in some areas of any radio.
Then tag and make copious notes when un-soldering a wire or component lead.
Being systematic is the way to be here.
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Ditto to what Chuck said. In addition, as I resleeve all of the wires on these sets to get rid of the old rubber insulation for good, I have to unsolder one end of every wire in order to remove the remains of rubber and install new color-coded heat shrink tubing. While I have certain wires loose, it makes it easier to replace caps which may be tucked underneath wires. Take photos and LOTS of notes as you go.
I've repaired the similar 41-221 and it was a great performer. I'm sure the 41-226 will run just as well when you're finished.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN