[morzh]

Brought myself to doing that.

So far re-stuffing the caps was a walk in the park. Did all backelites and, today, the tin-can ones - they were not potted.

Now this big one next to the power XFMR, seems to be a challenge.
I desoldered it, drilled out the rivets, cut the wires and the panel came off relatively easy - just had to be careful not to crack it.

But then it's all potted with tar, and, unlike in the small backelite ones, it's a large can and the same technique is not likely to work.
I removed the tar at the bottom, to the level where caps are, but what to do next?
Short of using a chisel and a hammer, does any one of you know any quick (or quicker) and not too painful way of cleaning this can up?

And, when the cleaning is done - how do I secure the panel back? The rivets seemed to be glued right in the tar, so now that the tar is gone, what do I rivet it to?

The caps probably will be soldered right to the panel, but securing the whole thing in the can does not look straightforward.

Mike.

[Radioroslyn]

Put it upright in the oven. Bake it at 275 for 30-45min. Use a cork screw or a large I hook to screw into the paper caps and pull them out of the can. The first one is the hardest.
Terry

[Texasrocker]

Place cardboard on a concrete floor in the garage. Set the metal caps can on two small blocks of 4" x 4" wood (holding metal can ends only) tar side down on top of the cardboard. Do this in a well ventilated area and don't breath anymore of the fumes than possible. Use a Milwaukee electric heat gun turned on high, and start heating the can all the way around with heat gun about 4" away from the metal can. Move the heatgun to get all the tar dripping out equally. Keep heating the can till the tar starts melting and dripping on the cardboard below ( usually about 8- 10 minutes). After a few extra minutes of working the heat evenly around the metal can, all the tar and caps will usually fall out the bottom of the can in a melted state of mess. If extra force is needed, wear heavy cloth gloves and use big pliers to hold the metal can, and a screwdriver or corkscrew to help dig out any remaining contents. Use more heat as necessary until job is done. Let cool, clean metal can inside and out, re-paint if necessary, and install new caps. Throw the cardboard away after all the old melted tar and contents cool off, no messin' up the wifes kitchen oven or funky smells indoors makes for a happy home!! Have been there and done it both ways before.

[Arran]

Here is how I would do it, get an old toater oven or hotplate (the kind that has burners like an electric stove) from somewhere and a small metal tray, the toaster oven usually comes with one. Cover the metal tray with aluminum foil, place the block condenser can on the sheet and bake the can in the toaster oven, or on the hotplate, at about 200-250 until the tar and wax gets soft. On the hotplate you may be able to place it topside down but you will probably need to place the can on it's side to fit it in the toaster oven. Once it's soft you can start pulling out the contents either but the leads like some have or by screwing a large corkscrew or a large wood screw into one of the old condensers. I have tried melting these things out by placing them bottomside down and it just makes things more messy then the other two, toaster oven melts the contents quicker but the hotplate method is less messy and is the method shown in the Ghirardi Radio Servicing manual believe it or not.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Thank y'all guys,

But I had a free day yesterday and could not wait for the answers, so I did it the hard way.

I put the can in the garage inside a wide cardboard box (so I have a free space for moving hands), and with the help of a large drill, chisel and elbow grease in 3 hours picked ot the whole D**n thing.

Yes, I got me a blister on my right hand (for those with dirty minds: from the chisel! Though the process is very much reminiscent of...oh well....)

I cleaned up the can with a bit of a lacquer thinner, riveted the soldering panel back to the bezel (I had caps bought in advance), soldered the caps, and all is now honky-dory. Almost honky-dory.

But this probably requires the separate topic.

Happy thanksgiving, to all of you!


PS. Texasrocker - it is MY kitchen! My wife is allowed there by special dispensation only - I am the cook of the house. And the oven is mine. And the set of Wusthof knives, which my wife does not even know how to handle - she prefers the dull one, being afraid of a sharp knife. And a huge a** meat grinder. And my cast iron Griswold skillets and bowls.
Actually, she's happy that way. Me too. We both get to eat good food.

[Radioroslyn]

Boy that sure is the hard way to get that thing apart!!!
Terry
ps I haven't forgotten about having a visit with you but just have been busy.Will keep you posted.

[Texasrocker]

[Texasrocker]

All you need is a good ol Wagner Heat Gun set on high setting, and some patience in melting tar in the old metal type cap cans, no matter wheather you own the kitchen or not. Just tryin to help. Just don't ever try what you did removing the tar in the Philco caps can trying to do the same in a old Atwater Kent Radio, you will chissel out the good original filter choke also. Just as long as you know what components you are chisseling out, you are A.O.K.! Not all sets are the same. That is where schematics come in handy, and I am glad your sets filter choke wasn't buried in the tar also. Using slow heat to melt these type situations instead of getting in a hurry and chisseling away, saves many good original components that are sometimes buried in the tar also. Live and Learn....Best of luck with your future vintage Radio restorations!

[morzh]

Texasrocker

Thanks, yes, I realize a chisel is a brute force tool. Schematics are to be always read before one endeavors into a destructive activity

Actually, I though of using a heatgun (I have a Milwaukee), but then I have a 7-y.o., a 9 mos - old and a wife who will bring the previous two to my attention, if the kitchen and garage happen to smell like an asphalt truck.

I actually tried it first - I drilled a hole in one of the caps, put a big-a** screw in it, and, after giving it a good few minutes heating by my Milwaukee, tried to pull it out. No dice there.

This is why I eventually resorted to the blister-forming cutting tool and a hammer method.