Hi All:
I'm new to the forum. I just acquired a PT-44 table radio (wood). It looks very nice. It plays somewhat.
I have two questions:
1- Is this radio a desirable and/or a rare find, approx value working in good shape?
2- Would this radio be considered an easy or tough radio to work on and fix?
Any help would be appreciated.
TommyR
Posts: 205
Threads: 6
Joined: Jun 2006
City: Moundsville
State, Province, Country: WV
Hi Tommy,
2 Pt-44's have sold recently on Ebay, 1 for $137.50 and the other for $150.
Since it plays "somewhat" it should not be too difficult to recondition.
Main thing is to replace electrolytic and paper capacitors and check for resistors that have drifted in value.
Carl
Northern Panhandle, WV
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
And watch out for those rubber-covered wires. The rubber insulation dries up and falls off over time, creating a real potential for short circuits.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Ron Ramirez Wrote:And watch out for those rubber-covered wires. The rubber insulation dries up and falls off over time, creating a real potential for short circuits.
OK -- I plan to go slow and careful on this radio.
"Measure twice - cut once".
TommyR
Posts: 236
Threads: 30
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Minneapolis/St. Paul MN
Going nice and slow, especially if this is your first restoration, is good advice. Replace wires and parts one at a time so you don't lose track of where you are, and it should be fairly straight forward.
As far as capacitor values, don't worry too much about not finding "exact" replacement values. In other words, you'll run into some .05 uf caps; modern .047 uf will do the job. 33 uf will replace a 30 uf, 47 uf for 50 uf, .033 will replace .03, and so forth. The important thing is the working voltage - replace with either equal or greater value; don't go down!
After the caps are replaced, an alignment will help it operate much better. We'll cross that bridge when we get there. It sounds like it sort-of works right now, so odds are you have a good set of tubes.
One more bit of advice - replace the power cord with a modern polarized plug. Wire the neutral side (with the wide blade) closest to ground. Be sure to ask if you have any more questions - we're here to help!
Sounds like a nice radio - good luck with it!
Bill
Sent from my Pentium II on the AT&T Dial Network
Bill Hutchinson Wrote:Going nice and slow, especially if this is your first restoration, is good advice. Replace wires and parts one at a time so you don't lose track of where you are, and it should be fairly straight forward.
As far as capacitor values, don't worry too much about not finding "exact" replacement values. In other words, you'll run into some .05 uf caps; modern .047 uf will do the job. 33 uf will replace a 30 uf, 47 uf for 50 uf, .033 will replace .03, and so forth. The important thing is the working voltage - replace with either equal or greater value; don't go down!
After the caps are replaced, an alignment will help it operate much better. We'll cross that bridge when we get there. It sounds like it sort-of works right now, so odds are you have a good set of tubes.
One more bit of advice - replace the power cord with a modern polarized plug. Wire the neutral side (with the wide blade) closest to ground. Be sure to ask if you have any more questions - we're here to help!
Sounds like a nice radio - good luck with it!
Bill
Thanks Bill.
I plan to keep it and use it -- when you think about it, THESE sets were meant to be fixed. To see one in a garbage landfill would be upsetting.
TommyR
Posts: 205
Threads: 6
Joined: Jun 2006
City: Moundsville
State, Province, Country: WV
Ron Ramirez Wrote:And watch out for those rubber-covered wires. The rubber insulation dries up and falls off over time, creating a real potential for short circuits.
Yes, replacing the old rubber covered wire can be the worst part of the job.
Carl
Northern Panhandle, WV
Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
|
Recent Posts
|
philco predicta
|
Hi CGL,
Yes, troubleshoot the 140V Power supply, something is definitely loading it down, and since this supply excl...MrFixr55 — 07:32 AM |
1934 American Bosch 440T restore on YouTube
|
Looking forward to Part 2.Jimradio — 07:30 AM |
1949 Motorola 5A9M
|
Yeah, looks really dense. It is amazing how many sets of brand A were made by Brand B. I have Mid 50s RCA that is an e...MrFixr55 — 10:15 PM |
Philco 60 Power Trans
|
I am not 100% sure of the reason, likely due to the depth of the winding, but on HV windings of a power transformer and ...MrFixr55 — 10:04 PM |
46-1213 Schematic Question
|
Hi Larry,
Great idea on the fuse! Place in the line at the power switch. Best between the cord and switch. While ...MrFixr55 — 09:59 PM |
Philco 47-205
|
Just picked up the second of the three Leatherette Philco's. (My second one in the three-radio series) Nice shape, all p...slford310 — 09:18 PM |
Philco 60 Power Trans
|
Dan;
I take it that you mean that the H.V winding reads 157 ohms on one side of the center tap, and 177 ohms on the o...Arran — 07:00 PM |
New find. 91X code 225
|
Hello,
I have a Philco 91 code 121 (one speaker). I found more info here that might be of some help. Might want to fo...dconant — 06:42 PM |
Philco 60 Power Trans
|
Hello,
The HV winding on the trans is about 700 volts no load. My meter (Fluke 115) only reads to 650 volts so I meas...dconant — 04:18 PM |
New find. 91X code 225
|
Thanks all. To be honest I don’t know what to make of it being in this cabinet style but I like it a lot. I specifically...pdieten — 12:47 PM |
Who's Online
|
There are currently 995 online users. [Complete List] » 3 Member(s) | 992 Guest(s)
|
|
|

|