Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Restuffing a thin long cap.
#1

I have a Zenith electrolytic that is totally dried up (says 16uF 400V, measures at 1nF and is suspiciously lightweight), and that is very slim and long (under 1" diam. and 5.5" long).

I want to restuff it but not sure where best to cut it. I want it to look undamaged when it's done, but if I cut the top, I simply won't reach to the bottom. Too long and narrow. If I cut the bottom, it will look like you know what.

Anyone has experience dealing with those?

I had no problem with those that were twice as wide, but this one's a challenge.


PS. How do I connect the Negative wire to the aluminum body? (soldering won't work on aluminum.)
#2

Don't seem to be problem replacing a modern 22 mf/450 VDC electrolytic in it's place. Just observe polarity. Forget about stuffing old one unless you are working in a museaum. Negative almost certainly would be "body" but trust the schematic and original connections.
#3

        Codefox,

Well, I know that, about polarity and such.

I really want this cap in this radio, and this is the sole purpose of this post.

Here is the cap.
#4

I would first try going in from the top. Using some small long needle-nose pliers and hemostats you should be able to gut the thing and slip in the new cap and fish the leads out the bottom.

If you can't do it from the top I think if you make a thin/clean cut close to the bottom it will not look that bad when reassembled. You can find or fashion a small tube to slip both the top and bottom over and glue/epoxy them together.

I would insulate both leads and run them out the bottom and then connect the applicable one to ground under the chassis at a convenient location.

Worst case scenario would be to leave the old capacitor on the chassis and mount a new one underneath. That's the way an old repair shop would have handled it, and you could even stuff the new cap into an old axial electrolytic for a period correct looking repair. Just a couple of ideas for you to think over.

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#5

John,

Thanks, yes, the axial electrolytic is not a bad idea.....provided I can get me one of the old.

As for the two insulated wires out, you probably mean something like this?

   

Those had insulated body and two wires and this is how i re-stuffed them; I can make this one look like it too.

Actually this is an even better idea, as the length precludes me from soldering to the center pin, but if I don't need it and am out to simply gut the cap and remove the center pin, it requires no finesse and can be done even with this length to width ratio.

Thanks, I think I know what I'll do.
It pays to discuss things.
#6

I will post photos either today or tomorrow: I cut off the top cap with my Dremel and the cutting disk, right at the groove, so it will look fine.

Insides were as dry as H**l on a hot day in June.
Taking them out did not pose any problems, and there was no tar or anything. It was dry dry.

The central rod is quite high and should it be solderable I'd have no problem soldering to it, but I think it is not, and it is attached to the solder contact with a rivet of some sort.
So as I planned, I will remove it and go with two wires.

I will wait 'till I finish, but so far it is not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.
#7

Lave sos manos!
#8

Oh Me lave los manos, sin duda. Load of dust and who knows what else.

But then any opened electrolytic commands the same handwashing: wet or dry, it is all possibly very toxic if ingested.

PS>

Here, I made some pics.

   
   
   




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Jackson 715 not working
Mrfixr55, its working now. I cleaned the switches and sockets with spray cleaner. Thanks for helping on this one.daveone23 — 06:26 PM
Jackson 715 not working
Now that you posted the schematic, I don't know why that Sprague electrolytic cap is across the meter, as it is not indi...MrFixr55 — 05:51 PM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
What may be lacking in the PP Tube amps may be the 2nd harmonics, which some, especially RCA back in the day called &quo...MrFixr55 — 05:32 PM
Jackson 715 not working
Usually in an emission tester, the tube under test is measured as if it were a diode. So, some testers connect all the g...RodB — 04:17 PM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
Yep. F5 is green, D5 is Red. Red is Bad. Green is Clean.morzh — 01:30 PM
Jackson 715 not working
I did start to do that but I stalled out because I could not figure out how the grid and plate get voltage. In this diag...daveone23 — 11:52 AM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
(Insert Homer Simpson "DOPF" Here.) When all fails, look at the can. Took the Ron Ramirez advice, red Caig D...MrFixr55 — 09:23 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
From your text I am not sure if you intend to use the existing speaker with a resistor instead of the field coil. It wo...morzh — 08:44 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
My field coil is bad. I am still hoping to find an original, but if I can't I will go with a fitting Philco speaker, 125...dconant — 08:34 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
As Rod said, it is OK to use a fitting speaker, and then look for an original one. If you buy a Hammond 125 output tr...morzh — 08:15 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 3847 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 3846 Guest(s)
Avatar

>