[Guest]

I recently picked up a 38-9 at a local auction. The cab is in real good shape, and the chassis is not too bad. The only work done that I can see was the replacement of the electrolytics years ago, and a mod to the socket of the 6K7G tube socket.

This chassis has square tube shields (3) which fit over a raised lip riveted to the tube socket (on top). The raised lip for the shield of the 6K7 was broken off at some point and is missing, as is the square tube shield for this tube.

What someone did in the past was to put in a metal tube (6K7G) and soldered a ground conection under the chassis directly to pin 1 of the tube. (Pin 1 is the metal). They did this because this tube socket does not have a pin at 1 and 6.

Would anyone have a parts chassis that has one of these octal sockets that the tube shield metal could be removed from? What other solution can someone suggest. I don't like the idea of soldering to a tube pin under the chassis.

[Ron Ramirez]

Marv

Please place an ad in the "Philco Wanted" section. In doing so, I suggest you look for 1936, 1937 or 1938 Philco chassis to find the tube shield base you seek.

A hint: If you use a 1937 tube shield base, you will be able to use a metal or GT tube in the socket. The 1936 and 1938 tube shield bases are made so that only the size base of a "G" tube will fit. Of course, Philco did not use octal tubes in 1936 models, but the tube shield base in the '36 models is made the same as the 1938 tube shield bases.

I would suggest a new octal socket, with pin 1 of the SOCKET (not the tube pin itself!) grounded, together with a 1937 Philco tube shield base. With the tube shield in place, no-one will be the wiser, as all three model years use the same tube shields for the most part.

[planigan]

Marv, you can also "steal" a pin socket out of another socket to place in the #1 position in existing socket. Clean all solder from pin terminal, you will see a triangular protrusion on the pin terminal, squeeze it back in and push terminal down and out hole (working from under chassis, set up side down). Push pin into #1 hole in exsisting socket from top and bend out protrusion which holds it in place.
PL