[Geoff]

Per morzh's tip above I changed my mind on leaving P/N 22-571 alone and just using lugs to wire in replacements (Thanks morzh!!!). I've come this far so I thought I might as well do it right. This electrolytic capacitor has three capacitors inside (C19, 2 mfd, 450V / C20, 6 mfd, 200V / C21, 8 mfd, 450V). The replacements were all the same value and all 3 are rated at 450V. This is the can they go into. I inserted a screw inside the bottom so I could have something to grab onto:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I thought I may have to heat this with a heat gun to soften it up enough to pull out but it slid right out without it:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Here is the replacement I made to place inside:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I used hot glue to hold it in place inside the can. I didn't use too much. I wanted to make sure the repair was clearly visible and I wanted it to be easy to remove for someone who may have to work on this down the road someday:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Here it is after installation:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Here is a photo of the other electrolytic (C18, 12mfd, 450V). I cut the can as close as possibble to the bottom, cleaned out the inside, inserted the replacement, and then used JB Weld to to put the 2 pieces back together again. The repair left a visible line where the JB Weld was so I wrapped a small piece of muffler tape around it. It turned out better than I thought:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

The wiring of the underside of the chassis is about 95% complete.

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

One thing I'm going to have to spend some time on is the Dual Fixed Padder (C7). As you may recall from my earlier posts I totally disassembled and cleaned this. Here it is before cleaning:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I've been given tips on how to align this after everything is back together. But I checked the continuity between the upper and lower left side lugs. This should not have continuity but it did. Same on the right side. So I'm going to have to spend some time and take this apart again and see where the opposing plates are touching. Shouldn't be a big deal, just tedious.

Well, that's all for now... stay tuned and thanks for following along!!!

- Geoff

[morzh]

Geoff

One thing I did in mine was, and it may be kinda late for you to do, especially if you did discard the old capacitors, I drilled out every single one of them old caps, cleaned them, and inserted the new axial caps inside, potting them afterwards.

This adds to the authenticity - the big orange-colored caps totally overshadow the fact that the resistors are the newer types (I am not dedicated enough to do that painted ceramic cast on new resistors, using old resistors to create the molds).

I think it maybe took me a couple of hours overall, including soldering, to do all the caps. Yes it is the underbelly, but still.....


Also, for the future, when you have the old electrolytic like the one you had to cut (the aluminum type), it pays to cut it right under the top cap. There is a natural seam there, so if you cut it neat enough (and you still have good enough access to the innyrds when you gut it and replace the new caps), then when you glue it back with whatever (I use the same JB Weld) it is not really noticeable unless you really look, so no aluminum tape wrap is needed.

[Geoff]

I thought about drilling it out the way you mentioned but since it is only noticed when viewed from the underside of the chassis I wasn't as concerned. And in all honesty, I just wasn't motivated enough so I just tossed out the innards.

I'll try your tip on the aluminum electrolytic on my next project.

Thanks!!!

- Geoff

[Geoff]

It's been quite awhile since I've had time to work on this but I was finally able to get somework done last weekend. For the most part, the wiring is complete except for around the volume control. The Zenith schematics have a parts list but sometimes there are more than one for each designation. For example, C10 is a 0.02fd capacitor. It is only listed once but there are actually 2 C10's in the schematic so I came up short on a few capacitors. I placed an order for more and should get them next week.

I refurbed the motor that drives the motorized tuning. Here is a picture before I cleaned it up:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Here are all the parts after being cleaned up and all the metal pieces polished:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

And here is the motor re-assembled:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I placed several drops of oil on the felt washers. One of them was pretty hard and did not soak up as much oil as the other. The oil I used was from a Lionel train maintenance kit I have. It is a light machine oil.

The shutter assembly is back on the chassis but I do not have a picture of that. I'm hoping to wrap up the chassis by the end of the month so stay tuned!

- Geoff

[Geoff]

I got my capacitor order and finished up the last of the wiring last night. This morning I slowly brought it up on my variac. I'm always a little nervous firing up a radio for the first time after a complete rewire like this. After getting to 117V I tried out the motorized tuning and everything worked great. I then started scanning tha AM dial and to my delight I was able to receive quite a few stations loud and clear! I tried out the Foreign and Amateur bands and, although I only have a 2 foot piece of wire hooked up, I was able to hear some faint stations on both bands. I went back to the AM band and then peaked the IF transformers by ear. I'll go back and do a full alignment later. I'm back on the AM band right now and listening as I write this. Here is a photo:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I'll be posting more photos later and I have a few touch-ups I need to do. The belt for the motorized tuning slips a little and I've noticed that the tuning eye does not open or close. Anyways, just wanted to post this update.

- Geoff

[Joe Rossi]

Great job Geoff! Can't wait for more photos. Joe

[morzh]

Nice looking chassis, Geoff.

Once you align it, it'll bring in tond of SW band stations. Not that itr does much good - I do not speak Chinese, Japanese, or much Spanish, and I do not listen to Russian station ""Voice of Moscow" especially in view of its political orientation.
But it's nice.

I tell you more: I found out that two of the tubes were ion the red zone when tested, one a bit and another one quite a bit.
I changed them for NOS (tested stellar). No effect. The radio picks up the same stations at the same sgtrength, so it is fairly well designed.

Oh, and don't forget - you should liosten to your SW on the ""long distance' setting and not "local". Thios way it is waaaay more sensitive.

[Geoff]

I've found that the "Local" selection is all but useless. There is a station here in my city that I can hardly hear on the "Local" setting. In order to receive anything with any strength I need it set to "Distance".

- Geoff

[morzh]

No, it is not at all useless.

I thought so too, especially after I found out that there is supposed to be a 47K resistor and it was 1.4K in that first toob's cathode that LD switch shorts, and I replaced it and it still did make no difference; then I found out one of my first RF xfmr's winding opened.

Once it worked, I listen to my local station only on Local setting, as otherwise it is unbearably loud even without any antenna. Called ""Good times oldies", in Lakewood. Reeeely loud. With Local setting it is nice, clear and very loud.

[jth877]

You can replace that 47k resistor with a 12k and the local function works a lot better! Maybe a little higher value is you transmit AM though a sstran or whatever.

Did you make sure you replace the 1meg in the eye tube socket?

[Geoff]

Yes, I replaced the 1 MEG resistor when I rewired the eye tube socket. All of the original wires were pretty rough. Maybe I'm not getting too much action on the eye tube because I am only using a 2 foot piece of wire for the antenna right now?

What is the resistor number for the 47K you are mentioning? I checked all of the coil windings after I removed all the wiring and everything checked out OK.

- Geoff

[jth877]

Yeah a 2ft wire won't move a 6u5 too much, try a 6e5 as a simple function test. The resistor is an R2 (I think). This thread explains where it is.

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopi...e+resistor

[Geoff]

Yes, you are right. It is R2. I'll try a 6E5 tube later this week.

Thanks!

- Geoff

[morzh]

It is R2, in the cathode of the first 6K7G. It is shorted when you put the switch on "Long distance" thus increasing the gain.

[morzh]

I use 6E5, works fine.

I used 0603 SMT resistor and two wire strands, put it right under the tube base - this was I did not have to open the socket which is prone to cracking.
(I have to patent this.....)