Posts: 227
Threads: 60
Joined: Sep 2012
City: Kokomo, Indiana
I just bought a Philco Model 90 for $60.00 It is complete. All knobs in excellent condition. The chassis is in pretty decent shape, both copper caps still there, but the rear 1/4 left side is rusty where something that looks like and smells like the sludge that drips out of your barbecue grill spilled on it. The cabinet is in very good shape and solid, but again the sludge ruined the finish so I am re-finishing. After I'm done with the cabinet I'll start on the chassis and see what that leads to. I broke the dial bezel while stripping the cabinet, broke one corner off. Several salty words were bandied about immediately afterward. Cannot find the piece. Great Northern Antique radios advertises one for $20.00 I believe. Even if I never get it operational, it is a beautiful classic radio and will look great in the house when done. Sorry I cannot post pics due to work policy about loading pics on to our computers. Maybe later.
Posts: 2,353
Threads: 92
Joined: May 2010
City: Clayton, NC
Posts: 227
Threads: 60
Joined: Sep 2012
City: Kokomo, Indiana
More on the "new" 90. Bakelite escutcheon. 4 gang tuning condenser. 47 tube. I believe it's a late '31 to early '32 based on the way it's set up and the serial number. The chassis was cleaning up pretty decently all things considered until I started wiping down the silver cans that cover the coils with some alcohol on a rag and I noticed a distinct acid smell and my fingers got burnt. I believe what I thought was a mixture of dirt, mouse poop and BBQ grill munge was actually battery acid. By they way, when disassembling the case for re-finishing I broke the escutcheon. I thought it was brass. Turned out to be bakelite. Broke one corner off and I cannot find the piece. Any leads on where to get one?. Thanks.
Posts: 227
Threads: 60
Joined: Sep 2012
City: Kokomo, Indiana
Sourced a new escutcheon from Great Northern Antique Radios in Minneapolis. 20 bucks. Ordered it Friday, got it Monday. It is an exact match, cannot tell the new one and the original apart (aside from the broken corner). Happy Happy joy joy.
Posts: 227
Threads: 60
Joined: Sep 2012
City: Kokomo, Indiana
Update on my model 90 adventures. I'm of the opinion now that whatever corroded the chassis...and my fingers... was leaking from the Sprague capacitors not something that was spilled on it. I started polishing one of them with Brasso this weekend and the strong acid smell and burning fingers returned. Rubber gloves at all times from now on. Yeah, I can be a little slow on the take up sometimes. It looks like the radio had been laying on it's side and the caps leaked out on the rear half of the chassis. Is there any way to make sure these things are empty or to drain them without creating a huge hazard? Don't want them leaking out on my re-furbed chassis when done.
Posts: 1,703
Threads: 55
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Evanston, IL
The liquid is borax and water. Not a hazzard.
Usually it's all leaked out over the years and leaves a white crust inside.
Drill a couple real small holes in the bottom to drain.
One to let the air in, one to drain. Seal again with a
dab of epoxy glue to the drill holes, unless you are
planning to surgically open the can and re-stuff,
then pull the guts and wash out the can and dry.
Chuck
Posts: 227
Threads: 60
Joined: Sep 2012
City: Kokomo, Indiana
Thanks for the info. I do plan to leave the originals in place for appearance.
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Groundhog, I have my spare chassis now. If you need any parts, let me know. I'm pulling a couple cap blocks and the two e-caps so I have something original. It's a 25hz chassis and has one H**l of a transformer, which now appears at least the primary is good. Have not tried to fire it up.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 227
Threads: 60
Joined: Sep 2012
City: Kokomo, Indiana
jerryhawthorne I appreciate the offer. I'm really not sure how to tell if mine is a 50-60HZ model or 25HZ model just by looking. Or if it even matters for the parts I need. Any info would be appreciated. It is missing the large tube cover that usually has the sticker on it (it seems 90% are), and the cabinet only has one sloppily glued on rectangular shaped sticker that says Philco on the back at the top. No patent sticker or anything else. I know I can order reproductions. It's a single 47 tube type. Don't know if that would tell me anything or not. It's also missing one of the tube shields and it's base for one of the 27 tubes. Other than that I'm good. All knobs were there and in excellent shape. The escutcheon WAS good until I broke it. The cabinet was grungy and nasty but solid with no veneer missing or damage of other kinds. I ordered a replacement escutcheon and it came in and is perfect. The chassis is very clean underneath but had a lot of corrosion on the rear half of the outside, apparently from leaky electrolytics. Bad looking but repairable. If I could convince you to part with either one of, or both, tube shields that would be great.
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Got you covered groundhog. PM me with your address and your e-mail address. Have the tube shields you need (both round and the large one). Also have the graphics for the two labels that go on the large shield, will e-mail those to you.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 344
Threads: 38
Joined: Jun 2011
City: Tustin
State, Province, Country: California
Great deal on that Philco 90 
Beautiful radio.
Users browsing this thread: 10 Guest(s)
|
|
Recent Posts
|
|
Philco 60 Squealing
|
| Usually a wave trap is for keeping IF signals from entering the antenna and from leaving the antenna. You feed an IF sig...RodB — 09:30 PM |
|
Philco 60 Squealing
|
|
I just peaked it for the best signal at 600.
NULL it for IF frequency, originally it would have been null for 500kh...Chas — 08:05 PM |
|
Philco 60 Squealing
|
| Wavetrap no longer matters.morzh — 05:19 PM |
|
Philco 60 Squealing
|
| Rod, I had checked out your suggestions but did not help. I did solder the ground rivets to the chassis as Chas suggeste...dconant — 04:52 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
| Yeah, I know, Mouser and Digikey don't have "big iron" components. For some reason Philco was messing with the...Radiodial — 04:25 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
| Yes, I just had to deal with that while repairing the 37-604 Philco. Exactly that value choke was gone. And the current ...morzh — 03:52 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
| Ah, now where to find one.
I've into this before on smaller sets, I now recall. Hammond makes one that is only rated...Radiodial — 03:27 PM |
|
Philco 38-7 Speaker
|
| Ask the admins to put them together.
As for the renaming, while inside the thread, you simply press "New reply&quo...morzh — 02:23 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
|
This is the parts catalog.
32-7528 choke is 65H, 10mA, 2,250 Ohm inductance.
Find a suitable one.morzh — 02:18 PM |
|
37-690 Bass Choke Replacement
|
| While troubleshooting the no bass amplification issue, I think I found the culprit. The choke #104 is reading 164K ohms....Radiodial — 01:42 PM |
|
Who's Online
|
There are currently 4482 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 4481 Guest(s)
|
|
|
|
 
|
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
