[TA Forbes]

[Bob Andersen]

I've moved onto cleaning up the chassis. I also gave the tube shield a fresh coat of metallic paint.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8362/83555...81d9_c.jpg]

The old rubber mounts are rock hard so I'll need to find some new ones.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8325/83555...e923_c.jpg]

[Arran]

I think that those mounts were some sort of rubber grommet propitiatory to Philco, sort of like those triangular chassis shock mounts on some sets, I don't know where anyone is making repros or no. The closest thing I can think of to those are maybe shock mounts for a small refrigeration compressor, or you can try some thick washers with the same size center hole. The only other answer would be to make a mold and cast some out of a D.I.Y rubber compound, if you can still get it.
Regards
Arran

[klondike98]

If you go to someplace like Graingers and look for rubber vibration isolators there is a pretty wide selection and perhaps something might be close enough or be adaptable to what you need: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cylindr...sst=subset . Renovated Radio also seems to have some rubber repro items though not these exactly but it might be worth an ask.. http://www.renovatedradios.com/parts.html
Bob

[Arran]

Here is the rubber grommet selection form Grainger which may be worth looking through:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/rubber-...-c1x?xi=xi

Regards
Arran

[klondike98]

Another option is to start with some laboratory rubber stoppers and adapt them http://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Indus.../393458011
bob

[Bob Andersen]

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I found some items from renovated radios that will work. I needed to order some other stuff from them anyways

[Bob Andersen]

My order from RR arrived today. I think these will work out fine.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8093/83696...5a08_z.jpg]

[Bob Andersen]

I've also been examining my speakers more closely and discovered that the Wheelers are not made very well and the cones don't have much spring left in them. So I pulled out the original Philcos for another look. After some careful scraping and compressed air blowing, I actually got the voice coils moving fairly well and decided to patch them up.

[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8356/83686...8f09_c.jpg]

Yuck!
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8185/83686...6a3c_c.jpg]

[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8190/83686...752b_c.jpg]

Making good progress
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8465/83697...2518_c.jpg]

I used GC Service Cement and coffee filters to patch up the cones.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/83686...3c52_c.jpg]

I figure if these actually work, I'll recone them properly. I think the radio will be happier with the original speakers back in it
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8471/83686...81c6_c.jpg]

[jerryhawthorne]

Bob, nice that your putting back in the originals. A lot of work to clean them up but I think you will be happy. Looks like they are coming along well. Nice job.

Jerry

[codefox1]

Looks good so far. Hope the iron windings are OK. Best take it slow on the cones.

[Bob Andersen]

I figure I might as well polish up the aluminum IF cans before I remount the tuning cap. I hope to fire it back up tomorrow.
[Image: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8080/83909...a6bd_c.jpg]

[jerryhawthorne]

Bob, I'm not certain what you used on those cans, but the came out absolutely lovely. Nice job. Are you going to keep your method secret?
Jerry

[Ron Ramirez]

WOW! Yes, please share! I've never been able to obtain those results on the early 1930s Philcos...yet...

[Bob Andersen]

Thanks! Your answer is right in the photo - Simichrome and a cotton cloth. I cut the cloth into a long strip about 3 inches wide, dabbed on a little Simchrome, wrapped it around the can, grabbed one end in either hand and buffed the cans like I was shining shoes. I used the same stuff on the copper caps.