[LedHed]

Picked it up from a friend yesterday. looks to be pretty straight forward. Is there anything about this one I need to know?

[Ron Ramirez]

Nothing that I can think of. Just the usual capacitors and resistors.

[LedHed]

One fly in the ointment. It looks like in the past someone scavenged two of the three square tube shields. They also broke the rivets holding the bases in place and removed them too. Should I source the parts and pop-rivet them into place? I will post an ad in classifieds for the parts.

[codefox1]

6J5, 6A8 and 6K7 are available and are drop in replacements for the "G" types and do not require shields. The socket for pin #1 must however be grounded to the chassis. Be certain that these pins are not used as a convience tie point for unrelated components. The other remaining tubes, 6K5G/GT and 5Y4 do not get shields. Not to confuse you, but if you need a new 6F6G, you can replace with a 6F6 (metal type,) and if so ground Pin #1 as above.
Actually replacing the tubes may be easier and less of a pain than sourcing tube shields, but it's up to you. The metal tubes are more plentiful and cheaper than the G types.

I trust this is your set: Shoot a picture or two.

[LedHed]

I will get a couple photos loaded and post a link to my photobucket. Interesting idea about the metal tubes vice sourcing shields. I will consider that, it just so happens I have all the other types in my stash, but only the ST glass.

It's a pretty little tabletop. Finish is a little kicked, but I think I can make it look OK.

[Ron Ramirez]

If you can get tube shield bases from a junk 1937 Philco set, they use the square shields but the bases are four flat "fingers" that will allow the use of metal, GT or ST tubes.

Just a thought.

Codefox has a good idea regarding the metal tubes, but bear in mind that if you go all metal with no shields, any future replacements will also have to be metal. When pin 1 is grounded, the metal shell serves as the shield.