Posts: 13
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2013
City: Central Arkansastan
Hello, I am in the middle of restoring a Philco 42-340. I am starting out by replacing all the rubber wiring, which is crumbling pretty bad. One of the wires I am replacing goes into one of the RF Cans. I saw two nuts to remove, removed them, and now the can is loose, but will not lift off the chassis. It seems the choke inside is hung up somehow. I amn a Newbie, and this is my first restoration of a unit this big, and I do not want to mess anything up by removing it, but I have to get the can off so I can get to the wire. Is there some kinds trick to this?
[Image:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/pr.../RFCan.jpg]
A 55-Gallon Drum and a Shovel can solve many of life's little "Irritants"
Posts: 5,084
Threads: 270
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Wilsonville
State, Province, Country: OR
Propflux, if the can is like the IF can in the 42-322 I'm working on, there is a brass bar on the bottom of the can that holds the coil in the can. You have to pry up the brass tab and release it from the can on both sides to be able to lift the can. Alternatively you can unsolder all the wires that go into the can and then carefully lift the can, coil and all, by pulling the wires through the holes in the chassis. With the can assembly out you can then more easily pry off the brass bar holding the coil inside the can. I don't have the best picture of this but here's what I do have. You can see the red circle points out the slot in the can that the brass bar fits into.
Bob
[Image:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54621529/IFcoilCan.jpg]
Posts: 4,703
Threads: 51
Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
I would unsolder the wires and remove the can from the chassis first before removing the clip. Taking it out isn't too hard but getting it back in is a different story if it's still attached to the chassis. It's sort of hard to explain how to remove it, the slit works like a key way where you have to lift it up on both sides and push it over so it will slide or fall out.
Regards
Arran
Posts: 13
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2013
City: Central Arkansastan
Well, sounds like I'm gonna have to remove via unsoldering. Wasn't looking forward to that, this thing is a snakepit of old broken down wiring and the way they string them around is incredible! I thank everyone for the replies
Tim
A 55-Gallon Drum and a Shovel can solve many of life's little "Irritants"
Posts: 5,084
Threads: 270
Joined: Nov 2012
City: Wilsonville
State, Province, Country: OR
Good point Arran. After I had taken the can off, I realized there was no way I'd get that bar and can back together while it was all still on the chassis. So desoldering the wires from the get go is best.
Bob
Posts: 2,128
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2008
City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
Of course, also carefully replace resistors and capacitors found in the can so you will never have to open it again. Use heat sink clips and an extremely delicate touch so as not to disturb junctions of delicate windings. Best of luck!
Posts: 13
Threads: 2
Joined: Jan 2013
City: Central Arkansastan
Thank you all for the help.. Best of luck is right, I have 3 of them to do!
A 55-Gallon Drum and a Shovel can solve many of life's little "Irritants"
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
