[Mondial]

I would not worry too much about finding a shield. That type was used on many 30's radios and come up fairly often on ebay.

Although the shield you have may not be totally correct for a Philco, it is a generic shield for a 57/ 6D6/ 6U7G and should work fine until you find an original replacement.

[Ron Ramirez]

Well, how about that. I don't think I've seen the conventional square shield over the RF amp tube in a 38-116-125 before. And that is a Code 125, since you can see the holes for the trimmers on top, to the right of the variable condenser.

[Mondial]

Sometimes I wonder if Philco just used whatever parts they had on hand any particular day.

It reminds me of the tube shields on the 80B. I have seen both aluminum shields and larger plated steel shields used on the mixer/osc tube. But now I have run across an example of an 80B that has a small aluminum shield on the mixer/osc and a larger steel shield on the detector in the same radio, even though both tubes are type 36.

Perhaps there is a reason in the case of the 38-116. The 6U7G tube is identical to the earlier 57 and 6D6 in that there is no internal shield surrounding the plate, only a circular shield under the grid cap. Perhaps they had troubles with oscillation with the square shield and found that they had to go to the earlier type of shield specific to the 6U7G which narrows at the top .

[Ron Ramirez]

Makes sense to me.

And, yes, Philco was notorious for using up old parts until they were gone, before moving on to something different.

As an example of this, I'm getting a 200X later this week. Only, it is a hybrid 200/201 - 200X cabinet, 201 chassis. The labels inside the cabinet indicate 201, but one of them was placed partially over an older 200X label. You can find these photos at the other forum - do a search there for "Philco 200X" and the author "Rocklandman" - this is the radio I am getting. Or, just wait a few days and I'll post some pics of my own.

[PhilcoJohn]

The two favorite radios in my collection are my Philco 38-116 and my RCA 816K. Sorry to say that the RCA is a better performer than the Philco but its true.

[PhilcoJohn]

As Ron said A lot of the 38-116 Philcos are coming out of the woodwork lately I wonder why?

[Jayce]

Looks like we might we entering an era of 38-116 Philcos? Now we just need to have affordable 37 and 38-690s coming out of the woodwork! I'd go for one!

[PhilcoJohn]

Me to! We will just have to see what pops up and out of the closet for sale....

[palegreenthumb]

You probably already picked this up, but since no-one really answered you, here's my list of 'Ways to transport a radio with missing chassis hardware':

1. Take the chassis out. Works if a) all the hardware's missing and/or b) you brought tools with you, although sometimes there are snags (chassis hardwired to speaker, or bent hardware can't be removed or tightened).

2. Transport upright. Probably best for all radios anyway, but difficult with consoles unless you have a full-size van and furniture straps and blankets.

3. Temporarily use clamps to hold the chassis in the radio for transport. I always take a couple quick-clamps and deep-C clamps with me to look at a radio!

Those are the ways I've come up with so far.

Rodney

[vinzer]

Thanks Rodney

I am taking tools and hope to remove chassis and speaker but it will have lay down to tall to standup.

Vinzer

[vinzer]

Picked it up today 267 miles round trip has been recapped before some time with brown caps. that look like orange drop caps. only brown.

5x4g has been replaced with a 5u4g.

[Tim Tress]

The "brown drop" capacitors are old plastic-film replacements made by El-Menco or Mallory, and are probably OK; you could verify this if you have a capacitor tester.

My 38-116 is a code 125 model, and it has the square shield on the 6U7 RF amplifier. It has been a BIG restoration job; new audio transformer, dial, dial lamp sockets, volume control, bushings for the tuning unit and tuning capacitor, call letter strips, and bandswitch knob. I restuffed all of the capacitors, and installed repainted NOS resistors to resemble original IRC units as needed. Both the bandswitch and the AFC switch needed repair; I also had to find an original shield for the 6N7 oscillator control tube, as the set would break into oscillation on the highest shortwave band without it.

The cabinet is next...

[vinzer]

Sounds like yours was in worse shape than mine was. I had 2 missing tube shields and one base and a wrong tube shield on the 6u7g had to replace all the rubber parts to. My output transformer had a short from primary to secondary got a good shock when I hooked up a meter to secondary of the output transformer to aline the chassis was able to repair transformer my afc switch was missing the switch for the 2 bottom dial lights found a switch that would work in my junk box some parts of the mute switch were missing had to make them.

Cabinet was in good shape but the finish was bad bought new decals and knobs and dial also.

Got to much money in this I will have to keep it. but it looks good and sounds good.

[PhilcoJohn]

Vin... Love mine would not part with it or trade it for anything. When I bought mine I thought it would be a semi-rare set because of the tube count, but there have been a lot of talk of them changing hands ........a lot of them have come out of the woodwork! Keep yours no matter what.

[vinzer]

I am going to keep it John it's the second best radio I got my sparton 1466 sounds a little better plays louder and is more sensitive on shortwave.