Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Where to find new drive belts?
#1

        5/8/13
Working on the phonograph portion of my 53-1750 console. Does anyone know who sells replacement belts for these old phonographs?
I need a small drive belt that contacts the motor spindle to the spindle for the record platform drive wheel as well as the rubber that goes on the outside of the wheel. The wheel looks like it contacts in the side edge of the record platform but the rubber is dry and brittle and it sounds like a garbage can cover rolling down the street when played !! Also, is that rubber ring on the drive wheel just snapped on perhaps glued on?? Thanks,
Mike
Pictures attached:
1) Drive wheel showing rubber outside, dried, cracked
2) Small drive belt connects motor spindle to drive wheel spindle
#2

For those who might have similar questions or needs -- I found the answers to my own question.
This website http://www.turntablebasics.com/ has these belts and you can usually find one that you need. Also you can check out: http://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/default.asp
The metal wheel with the rubber around it is called an idler wheel. You can have the idler wheel rebuilt for about $40 at the turntablebasics.com website or I just bought a brand new one, complete with rubber and brass bearing on the second website mentioned above for only $32.00 and I was able to buy the little drive belt as well.
Cheers,
Mike
#3

Hi,
I had to get both parts for my phono, and did manage to get a NOS idler and new belt.
As you have already bought them, it makes no difference, but I'd like to put out another source to everyone here. Ed Crockett has the small belts and either NOS parts, or can rebuild your old idler. He specializes in the RCA 45 rpm phonos, but does rebuild all other brands.
Top notch repairs too, I've had other idlers rebuilt.
http://www.vintagelectronics.com/

One thing I'd like to mention, (unless you have already run into it), is that some NOS brass bearing idlers might be a little tight on your spindle. Using some 400 grit paper wrapped on a metal rod, you can very lightly hone the inside of the bearing to make a good fit to your spindle.
I'd also suggest that you disassemble the motor assembly to clean out the old grease, and relube sparingly.

The other parts of the phono will have dried on grease that will have to be removed. I did not disassemble the whole phono, but was able to get to all the old grease, scrape it off and relube.
I have the service folder for he phono itself if you need it. It shows all the adjustments and theory of operation. I really don't like working on phonos, but if you take your time you can understand how they work in detail.
Good luck with your project.
Gary.
#4

Mike, I know you have the schematic for the radio, but here is the link to the manual for the phono itself. It would be good to have on hand if servce is needed in the future.
http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...3ca646782f

Right click on the link , and select Save Target As...to save. You will need to use the Djvu reader to open the file. Other diagrams such as the ones from Beitman are opened with the djvu reader. You can get it here:
http://djvu.org/resources/
#5

Thanks Gary -- I didn't even know the schematic for the phonograph was available separate from the radio schematic.
Mike
#6

Got my new idler arm and drive belt from V/M enthusiasts website. The brass bearing in the idler wheel ( as well as the rest of the idler wheel) was PERFECT. Fit right on the spindle. Together with the little drive belt, I reinstalled it all, having first cleaned all the surfaces. I put just a dab of white lithium grease in the brass bearing. ...and you're right, all the lubricant on the surfaces was dry and brittle, so I cleaned it all up as best I could (rubbing alchohol with some Q-tips worked well) and relubed with some white lithium grease. This phonograph came back to life. The record platform spins quietly and starts up all by itself (I had to give it a start push before I replaced these parts). I put one of my Dad's OLD Al Jolson's records on and played it - almost brought me to tears, it's like a time machine !! Thanks.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Note that no power cord, power switch, or power transformer switch are shown. That (along with my experience with full s...DaleHCook — 07:09 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
A pair of wire strippers can give you an idea of what the existing gauge of the wire leads are in the IF can, I think it...Arran — 06:07 AM
My last cabinet for this year
Hello Dan, That is really beautiful what great looking radio you have ! I have friends who live in Calgary and the wea...radiorich — 01:51 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 5212 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 5210 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>