Posts: 240
Threads: 27
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Boulder, Colorado
Hi All;
I am Glad some one pointed out that the Philco 44 is similiar to my 34, and in the Schematic for the 44 it gives the resistances for the coils, which seem to be the same between the two, or at least puts me in the Ball-park.. The front ends seem to be the same.. And If nothing else is the same, at least I have something to go on for the coils..
THANK YOU Marty
Posts: 240
Threads: 27
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Boulder, Colorado
Hi All;
I found another interesting thing about this radio, The Tone control is a Four position tone Switch like what would be used in a Philco model 118.. I think that in 1936 or there abouts, this radio had some major work done to it.. Just like there are 2 Caps that are the same value in the Schematic, but they have two different part numbers, but in the part list the part numbers should be the same.. one is a 30-4124-P and the other is a 30-4381-S and both should be a .01 MFD..
THANK YOU Marty
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Philco changed the tone control in Model 34 from two point to four point on 6-15-1934. So that part is correct.
As for the two .01 uF caps, that change could have been made by a repairman later on, perhaps when the audio output transformer was replaced?
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 240
Threads: 27
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Boulder, Colorado
Hi All;
Ron, Thank You for all Your Knowledge and information.. Yes, that would make sense to me that the Cap was replaced about when the Transformer was replaced..
Since everything else in it looks period correct and as though it hadn't been touched since, repair wise..
The only Exception to that is the Power Cables, which have a modern Gray plastic covered multi - wire cable..
It also, looks like some one took some sand Paper to it to get rid some of the rust on the cans and on some of the chassis.. But, that can all be taken care of with Naval Jelly and Rustoleum primer and Paint..
I have started to take out each Coil and copy down it diameter and number of turns.. So far of the two I have done, one will be a measurement only as its wound like an RF Choke on the inside of the other coil, and I dare not try and remove it nor count its turns as its wound cross-wise for each turn.. The outside coil I can count..
And the IF coils have that leaking wax syndrom, so it should prove interesting getting them out..
And the Screws for the variable capacitor are soldered in to ground and in place.. I also tried all of the Tubes with two weak "D" batteries, all but the bad tube lite up, a 19..
THANK YOU Marty
(This post was last modified: 06-30-2013, 09:40 AM by marty.)
Posts: 240
Threads: 27
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Boulder, Colorado
Hi All;
I got all the tubes about a week ago..
And today I got the rest of the Sockets, I had been waiting for the 4 pin Sockets, I already had the 6 pin Sockets..
I have modified the Sockets so that they will fit in the off-set holes.. And I have mounted the two Audio transformers..
THANK YOU Marty
Posts: 240
Threads: 27
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Boulder, Colorado
Hi All;
I got a signal to pass from the Input Audio Transformer to Tube 19 to the Output Audio Transformer to the Speaker.. The signal from the speaker is very weak, but its there.. Now for the 30 Tube..
THANK YOU Marty
Posts: 240
Threads: 27
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Boulder, Colorado
Hi All;
The other night I took out my DC Simpson Meter that does 0-15 Volts DC, and along with it, in the same metalbox was a couple of Switcher Power supplies, that I didn't know that I had.. The Meter is to monitor my Filament voltage.. Which is set to 1.8 Volts..
One was for 2.0 Volts DC and the other one was for + / - 12 Volts DC, so with a set of resistor dividers.. I now have +/- 3 Volts and +/- 7 Volts DC and all very regulated and smooth..
I put a couple of Caps on my 137 Volt B+ line and hooked up the Speaker and my Audio Signal Generator, and the Audio Amplifier works just like its susposed to, I even looked at the Signal with my scope to the Speaker terminals.. It puts out nice Sine waves..
Before I had mostly 60 Cycle Hum, very zagged, and barely there..
THANK YOU Marty
(This post was last modified: 07-17-2013, 03:52 PM by marty.)
Posts: 240
Threads: 27
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Boulder, Colorado
Hi All;
Well I got something coming thru the set.. After playing with the various compensating capacitors, I got the Oscillator frequency close enough to start receiving stations.. I still have a ways to go to get the last 10K or so, but at least I know it is workable..
Would I need more capacitance or less to get the additional 10 to 15 K out of the Oscillator ??
I found that even moving one of the compensating capacitors up and down over the coil its mounted above, will make a difference in the oscillator frequency.. And of course touching the cap with my fingers will do the same..
I have an old Plastic stick, from Radio Shack that almost fits over most of the nuts that need adjustment.. I have had it for years..
Since I am using as my first IF a Miller 455KC IF can, and it has long leads to it, I have lots of squeeling and such.. So, I am going to put in the 1st IF can the IF Transformer that I bought from "Plaything of the Past" once I figure out how to wire it correctly..
This can has 4 wires coming out of the bottom, and I need to change it to 3 bottom and one on top.. I know how to find the two seperate coils, I just have to make sure they are orinated the same as the old one.. And that should eliminate much of the squeels and such..
THANK YOU Marty
(This post was last modified: 08-12-2013, 06:05 PM by marty.)
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