[TN Allen]

I recently bought a Philco Model 96 Lowboy, which I would like to restore in so far as possible. I can do the cabinet work, it really only needs some careful refinishing. Although the man who sold it to me said it works, I won't turn it on until I replace whatever components are recommended for replacement. I read somewhere the capacitors definitely should be replaced, and that these are in a separate chassis box. I would appreciate any suggestions and guidance offered. I have some experience wiring tube kit amplifiers and building speaker cabinets, I also looked at the Model 96 schematic and understand some of it. I teach machine shop and can make whatever parts I may need, though the cabinet and chassis seem untouched and complete other than one small knob missing. I suspect I can buy a replacement for this though.

As I say above, I'd appreciate any help offered, and would especially appreciate an opportunity to have a knowledgeable person look over the chassis/electronic components. I live in Downeast Maine, though, and may therefore be some distance from others who have experience with old radios, but could drive within reason to meet.

Thanks in advance.

[Eric T]

Welcome to the Phorum! You have come to the right place.

I'm not one of the radio gurus, but I'm always willing to help wherever I can. There are some good folks around here who know tons of stuff and are usually willing to help out with info and advice.

[jerryhawthorne]

Welcome and you have the toughest of skills for most of us, that of cabinet refinishing. Sounds like you will fit in here well. I'm a little far away for some hands on but others who know where all the information is hidden in terms of references will chip in. There are some good videos done on chassis restoration that will guide you and probably some threads here on the Phorum that will document your chassis. DON'T plug it in until some parts have been renewed.
Here is a link to your schematic in case you don't have one.

Regards, Jerry

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013902.pdf

[Jamie]

Welcome to the forum. You'll find that most of the guys here can help you with any problems you have with the radio. I'm sort of new at radio restoration myself, so I've got some advice for you...

Watch this series of videos on You Tube..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IelT-Qp13po

It's long (35 parts I think), but this gentleman walks you through a total chassis restoration. Of course, you don't have to do everything he does, and polishing up the chassis is optional, but he explains everything from how to read a schematic, to how to solder in a new cap. Personally, I think this video series should be required viewing for everyone who is new to antique radios.... I think you will find it well worth the time spent watching. Your radio will appreciate it too.

[TN Allen]

Thank you for the gracious welcome, I look forward to participating and hopefully contributing something worthwhile. I'll look at the videos, seems a good place to start. I have been looking at the schematic and understand some of it. One of the first things I noticed is the "Condenser Block Part No. 3754", is there a source for a replacement? Or do most people build a replacement module using new electrolytic capacitors, if so, is there information about this?

[Chuck Schwark]

A more comprehensive service info packet can be had thru my photocopy service on my site as well for your 96, as well.

Chuck

[Steve Davis]

Hi TN,

Your condenser block can be rebuilt by installing new capacitors inside the original can. The original capacitors are potted in a tar like material that can be removed using a heat gun.

Here is a better schematic for your 96 http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/images/96.jpg or better yet, contact Chuck Schwark at The Philco Repair Bench http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm Chuck will supply you with all the information you need to restore your radio.

Steve

[Steve Davis]

OK, Chuck beat me to the punch

Steve

[jerryhawthorne]

Hi TN, on that big cap can, I'm giving you a couple of pictures of my approach from a Philco 111 I believe. Might be a 112. Remove the 4 bolts holding the can down. Pry a bit and the can itself will come off the base plate allowing you to separate them enough to get to the wires that run out of the tar and soldered to the base plate. With the can in hand, so to speak, drill a hole in the center of the tar mess, install a long lag screw. I use this in my almost closed bench vise and yank the can up with head hitting on the bottom of the vise jaws. Slide hammer? If you can see a cardboard liner it should not require any heat. If not and the tar is in contact with the can itself, heat will be required. Using this technique, one does not have to remove the wires from the base on the underside eliminating the chance to mess up. Quite important for me!
Good luck and ask questions, we are here to help.
Jerry

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...0004-6.jpg]

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...0001-7.jpg]

[klondike98]

Welcome to the Phorum TN! Some good reading to start out can be found here: http://www.antiqueradio.org/begin.htm .

[TN Allen]

After removing the screws and looking at the condenser can and wires, it seemed unlikely to unsolder the wires from between the can and can base. Looking at the wire connections from the bottom of the chassis, where the wires are looped and soldered on the base, it looked easier to snip the wires, leaving a short end to hold with needle nose pliers in order to heat and remove these short ends. This is what I did, but that solder must require a higher temperature or more heat than the Weller I have provides.

The can does appear to have a paper liner, perhaps it will not be too difficult to remove the old capacitors and pitch.

Other than a few dead worms, dust and dirt, the inside of the chassis looks good, as do the components inside. I think I'll just clean it all up, leaving the finish as is. It's tarnished with only a few spots of rust, but otherwise it looks uniform.

I have sent Mr. Swark a check for his packet, which seems a very worthwhile thing to have. When I have it, I'll order capacitors. I'd appreciate suggestions for other parts that should be routinely replaced, other than parts I should check, such as resistors?

After reading that the Model 296 was similar to the Model 96, except that it included a turntable, I looked on the Model 296 schematic for a connection to the turntable. I would like to modify the radio if advisable, by discretely adding an RCA jack and selector switch on the back of the chassis for a turntable or perhaps a CD player if it is easily possible to match the output from these to the part of the circuit that had the original turntable input. I have reworked a few turntables for 78s, and could add a preamp to one of these.

Thanks again for the gracious welcome and suggestions.

[codefox1]

Share your findings with us when you are finished, then on to the next one.

[jerryhawthorne]

Moving right along TN. Yes, I just snipped the wires to remove the can from the base. I then cut the wires flush with the base grommets and using my handy little hand drill, drilled out the grommet holes.
A 40 watt iron should be enough for those wires.
Good Luck, Jerry

[TN Allen]

I have received Mr. Schwark's packet and am ready to replace the capacitors in the Model 96 Condenser Block. I see in the photo above some of the capacitors are 630 volt, but would appreciate the voltage values for all of the capacitors, and any other suggestions for replacing these capacitors.

Also, are there other parts I should order and replace before switching on the radio? I assume I should do this using a variac?

Thanks for the help, tna

[jerryhawthorne]

TNA yes the yellow caps are 630V. The black caps are Solen Fast Caps which I prefer over low value e-caps. They too are 630 V. They are larger than e-caps but room is not a problem. Standard 450V e-caps will work fine as well. You should restuff the tone control caps as well. All three 630V will be fine. You will find that easy compared to the big can!
Good luck, Jerry