Posts: 22
Threads: 2
Joined: Sep 2013
City: Callahan Fl
Hello everyone, I'm new on here and already have some questions. I recently received a model 40-199 and I need to recap. I have recapped a Olympic phonograph in the past and it went well. My questions are 1 Where can I find a photo fact for this model? I have found a schematic but I would like a hard copy that lists the values of the caps. 2 When I removed the chassis I noticed wax directly under the transformer,it looks like it is coming out of the center where the wires go in the bottom. Does this mean I need a new one? And if so where do I find one?3 Are these good radios? This was my uncles parents and has been in the family since new so I really want to restore it so he can see it working again. Thanks for the help.
Posts: 7,288
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Hi Fib and Welcome to the Phourm!
Well for starters you won't find a Sam's for your set as they didn't start till 1946. Your set predates that by six years. So what you are looking is the information from Philco. Chuck can hook you up with what was printed on your set at that time.
In regards to your transformer, maybe not . What to do is remove the #84 tube. Then use an AC volt meter to measure the voltage from the chassis to each one of the connections on the 84 socket with the set on. Three of them will show nothing but if the transformer is good the other two will show about 200vac. It's not uncommon for the transformer to leak a little wax but if it shorts you are looking at a few tablespoons worth and it will smell burnt. The other test is to remove the 84 tube and turn the set on for 5mins or so transformer should not be hot to the touch.
Your set has some optional features like an RF amp and push-pull audio output. Should play a bit better than the average bear.
Hope this helps
Terry
ps somehow I think I know you.
(This post was last modified: 09-09-2013, 07:37 AM by Radioroslyn.)
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Welcome Fib, you can print out service details from the attached link to get started. As Terry indicated, you will want to get the whole package in readable detail (large schematic) from Chuck.
Jerry
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/339/M0013339.htm
Chuck's site:
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 139
Threads: 8
Joined: Aug 2013
City: Central PA
Welcome, Fib! I'm a noob here and have found lots of great input!
+1 on getting readable schematics from Chuck!
Posts: 22
Threads: 2
Joined: Sep 2013
City: Callahan Fl
Thanks for the advice. I will be contacting Chuck. Also is there anything I should be aware of when recapping particular to this radio , on my last one I just did the paper and electrolytic. I've read of the wires but what about the mica and resistors.
Posts: 7,288
Threads: 268
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
What I do is when I'm recaping I;'ll break out the ohm meter and check the resistors has I go. You will notice that in a lot of cases there is a cap with a resistor wired across it. If you try to measure it without disconnecting it you won't get a proper reading. So when the cap comes out the meter goes in. The micas I leave alone till troubleshooting.
Your mileage my vary.
Terry
Posts: 29
Threads: 5
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Oak Park, IL
Just finished recapping a 40-190. Two difficulties came up; first, the wiring for the push buttons blocks access and has to be carefully detached from the chassis and moved out of the way. The second was how hard it was to get the old solder to melt. I decided to leave the resistors to some other time. It plays very well; I am now working on touching up the finish on the case. The folks here are very helpful. Good luck, have fun, and be patient!
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Fossil, no problem here, we are patient. For melting the solder, make sure your tip is clean, I have a damp sponge to wipe it across, then wick it with some solder. Generally 20 watts is just fine. Lots of wires on it, I will kick it up to 40 watts.
Good luck, Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 481
Threads: 18
Joined: Jan 2013
City: Mesa, AZ
I keep a piece of 220-320 sandpaper handy and rub and "roll" the tip on it and "tin" it with new solder before touching the old solder (or at least the stubborn blobs that won't melt). Works everytime for me. Did a complete recap and resistor change on a '39 RCA Victor, then a complete rewire, recap, and resistor changeout on the '42-400 with the same tip, and a cheesy iron! No prob!
Posts: 22
Threads: 2
Joined: Sep 2013
City: Callahan Fl
Again , I appreciate the info. I just ordered the schematic from Chuck. I think I will have to replace the wires from the pushbuttons as they are very brittle but strangely the other wires seem flexible. This actually looks easier than the Olympic I did but I can only hope. This is a very informative site.
Posts: 1,562
Threads: 56
Joined: Nov 2008
City: Sedona, AZ/Placentia/CA
Fibber, those wires from the push buttons carry very little voltage, if they are half way good, I would not play with them. Typically (not certain on your radio) they hang out there in the air far from anything they could short to. Keep in mind, I'm somewhat of a dim bulb. Mostly cosmetic in that area just in case you wish to pull the radio out of the cabinet so friends can take a look.
Jerry
A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
Posts: 240
Threads: 27
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Boulder, Colorado
Hi All;
JerryH, what You need is a "Dim Bulb" Tee Shirt..
Maybe Ron Could Sell them to Raise funds for the Phorum.. Just a thought..
THANK YOU Marty
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