[Jamie]

Order a schematic from Chuck!

In the past, I had always just grabbed a free schematic from Nostalgia Air. Then I would spend time squinting and running to the computer to zoom in. Half the time, the parts list is incomplete. Sometimes I would have to download other schematics hoping to match up a part number to find out a value...

I recently ordered a schematic from Chuck, and the Philco Repair Bench website. All I can say is, I am impressed! I had no idea what I was missing. Chuck sent me a ton of great information.

You get all the of the service data, plus a complete parts list and Philco Service Hints and Tips, alignment info, shadowmeter info... plus a large, expanded, easy to read, clear schematic.

It is well worth the money.. I don't know Chuck, nor am I affiliated with him, but I know a good deal when I see one and I'll be a regular customer now. If you can't fix your Philco with this data, then you have serious problems...

Here is a link... http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm

[Eric Adams]

I'm with you on that PuhPow. Chuck has saved me more than once.

[Arran]

Fortunately in my case I happen to have most of the original Philco factory service info from 1928-1937, but many people do not have this. In the case of a complex radio like a 16 or one of the 116s, such comprehensive info can be a great help.
Regards
Arran

[marty]

Hi All;
I have ordered from Chuck and have been more than well PLEASED.. I am currently waiting for my latest order, which should be here any day.. And PuhPow is right, its the FIRST thing anyone needs to do after getting a 'new to them' Philco Radio..
THANK YOU Marty

[462ron]

+1 on that. I just received a service pack from Chuck for my 37-116 and I am impressed by all the in depth info that comes along with this besides the schematic. Definitely we'll worth it!

Ron[/i]

[GarySP]

Agree with everyone on this thread. Thought I could get away with using the basic info available on various websites with my relatively simple Model 20... Chuck's package had so much in-depth information that I didn't find anywhere else. Very prompt with shipping also. Take care, Gary.

[Mondial]

I just wish Chuck would accept payments by Paypal. Its so much more convenient.

I pay all my bills online and having to write a check and send it out by mail is something I very seldom do.

[Jamie]

+1 on the Paypal suggestion. I'd even be willing to pay more. The info is worth $10 anyway.

[TA Forbes]

+1 Chuck has all the stuff you need, AND his enlarged copies are clear and readable!!

A resource that I enthusiastically endorse!

[TA Forbes]

AND.....

MY best tip for restoring any radio is KNOW WHAT YOU DO NOT KNOW.

Too often you see people get knee deep in a project based on incomplete knowledge about what they are doing. This results in cabinets devoid of toner, or are incorrectly and un-intentionally finished with the wrong coloring. This also results in polished escutchions, etc....
(I say un-intentionally because there are masterful cabinets done using different veneer or coloring to achieve an artful result. If you want an example of this go to the Richmond Designs site to see the work of a master cabinet maker/finisher.)

This also results in radios so far out of alignment they are unsalvageable, because the align-er did not know what they were doing.

GOOD ADVICE: Seek out the experts. Make yourself worthy of their friendship. LEARN from them. Make sure you are on "receive" more than you are on "transmit," and when you are on "transmit" it is to ask questions. NEVER think you know it all, as you will find that even the most junior collector may discover something wonderful that is worth knowing.

[marty]

Hi All;
TA, Thanks for that Tip..
I just got my Packet from Chuck, THANK YOU Chuck, it is well worth it..
THANK YOU Marty

[Arran]

Tom;
That's called "Guilding the Lilly" by the English, sometimes inaccurately called "overestoring", inaccurate because it's actually customizing not restoring. If you have a spare chassis or get a radio where the cabinet is more or less destroyed then there is no harm in building a custom cabinet in any shape with any veneers you like. But I have a bit of a hangup about such things being done with a cabinet that is easily restored to the way it left the factory, someone will end up with the radio down the road and may think it was a deluxe cabinet of limited production.
I see this on that "American Restoration" show all the time, like chrome plating parts that were painted, or polishing aluminum to a mirror finish when it had a matte one to start with. Although it may look pretty, when it comes to cars and motorcycles it actually reduces the value both historically and monetarily.
Regards
Arran

[TA Forbes]

Couldn't agree more.

I think to a degree the owner of the item has say about the degree of modification from original. I think that the rarity and historical significance of the item should have some detirmination as to how far from the original one should go.

I had a '76 Vette that I sold a few years ago. The 76 model is the most produced of any year. It is not particularly rare. Based on this I heavily modified the drivetrain and engine, installing a 377 cu in small block, a 700R4 automatic overdrive tranny, 3.55 gears, and so on. The result was a better than production car that is currently enjoyed by it's current owner.

I would NOT have done that to a pristine 63 split window vette, for the reason stated above.

Same goes for radios. A rare set deserves at least a re-stuff of original components, etc..... A common set OR a basket-case, less so.

[Arran]

I didn't know that 1976 was a high production year for Corvettes, but there are definitely a lot of the coke bottle style Vettes around. I had the idea once of finding a beater 1970s Vette with a bagged engine and retrofitting it with a Chrysler big block like a 400 or a 440, but a friend of mine said they would not fit.
Regards
Arran

[TA Forbes]

I think one of the issues would be oil pan clearance. With the nice aftermarket parts available for the gen 1 small block engine there are many neat options. I considered a stroker kit for the 400 cu in block I based my 377 on, with a .030 overbore the result would have been 421 cu in.

However, that would have required a lot of machine work with some very close cam to connecting rod clearances. Also would have required using pistons with the wrist-pin hole under the rings. OK racing stuff, but maybe not the best for the street.

Instead I de-stroked the 400 using a 350 cu in steel crank and bearing spacers. I did have the machine shop tack the spacers and line-bore the block to be careful. I used stock 5.7 rods but beam polished them and had them and the pistons balanced. Vice forged items I went with an aluminum/silicon alloy piston that allows ~0015 piston to cylinder clearance.