[Radioroslyn]

If you are going to play your set before recapping it solder a jumper across your shadowmeter so you don't burnout the coil.
Terry

[KCMike]

Thanks for that warning Radioroslyn. Since I did here it play when I went to buy it and it did have a nice sound. The hum could be heard in it. So I plan to recap it before any more power being put to it.
I have learned from the forum members here that you can do damage to other parts if you have some bad caps and resistors and put the power to it.

[Arran]

In keeping with what I said on the thread about the Philco 40-130 I believe that the Philco 116X is one radio where buying a service data package from Chuck Schwark is well worth the cost. With the larger and more complex sets Philco was known to make numerous revisions during their production runs, and to issue bulletins afterward. Since this set raggedy sort of works that is a positive sign, provided that someone did not perform a hack job to get it going.
Regards
Arran

[KCMike]

Thanks Arran, I have ordered from Chuck for three other radios I have, and plan to order info for this one when I get ready to recap it. I highly recommend getting the package for any large project.

[Gene Pederson]

Nice Find!! I hope your restoration goes well.

Gene

[KCMike]

Thanks Gene, I plan to make this one a winter project. I'am sure I will be needing advice from the forum members.

[Tom Hamilton]

Mike,

Congratulations on finding your 116X. It looks really nice. It's in much better condition than mine. I look forward to following your restoration as I've got a 116X as well.

Tom

[KCMike]

Thanks Tom. Did you put any pics of yours up on the forum?

[Tom Hamilton]

   

Here are a few pictures just after I got it home. I'm going to have to learn all about clamping and gluing loose/missing veneer.
In the first picture there is cracking in the veneer on the cabinet's top. I'm not sure what I need to do about repairing or replacing that.
Tom

[KCMike]

I have an Philco 501x that has some veneer issues on the big curved front sides. I'll try to put up a pic of it but I don't know if you can see the problem . Going to be in the same boat as you when I start on it. You will be able to hopefully get some advice on how to proceed from the members here in the cabinet restoration site. Your radio cabinet looks repairable to me and worth the effort.

[KCMike]

Opps, forgot to post pic. [Image: http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o654...8a85ce.jpg]

[Tom Hamilton]

Mike,

The good news is that the curved wooden areas are in good shape. For whatever reason on one side the veneer is peeling terribly but the other side actually looks pretty good.

The tubes all light up and the speaker crackles when I hooked up a 9 volt battery to it, so I know it's good. Other than that, it's totally silent. I've got some light chassis rust as well, but generally, it's all there and complete. I know I'm going to need some industrial strength help when I get going on this radio.

Tom

[KCMike]

Tom 12months ago I didn't know what an electrolytic capacitor was or did and forget about the differnt tubes and their purpose, 42 power output, 80 rectifier, etc. I don't know what your electrical expertise is so if you know that part and just mean the cabinet disregard this. I just got on line here and started asking questions about radio repair and received alot of help and spent many many hours reading the forum and studying radio repair books. Still consider myself a beginner.
I started with a philco 144 not the easiest to begin with and just got it playing last month.

[Tom Hamilton]

Mike,

I know what you're saying and I've done a lot of the same things you've done, doing lots of reading, asking questions and following restorations. I learned a great deal from Phil's old radios at www.antiqueradio.org and the You Tube videos of Joernone. He'll take a radio that is a real basket case and make it beautiful. I have so much respect for his work.

I can solder and am getting a handle on paper and electrolytic capacitors, resisters and tubes. I still have a long way to go.

Now, as for refinishing, I'm still a novice, but I've been doing a lot of reading and watching You Tube videos.

Tom

[Bill Kinghorn]

If 6A3's are needed and unaffordable, without changing the radio, an adapter could be made using a single octal socket and two 4-pin tube bases to allow the substitution of a single 6BX7GT/A. Though the latter doesn't have as much plate dissipation, it would operate class-B and be fine at ordinary volume levels.