I am not sure. The cabinet looks borderline. I am struggling.
Can you guys look at the page 1 and tell me what you personally think? There are couple of pics there that will give you an idea of what it looks like.
My problem is, I have no space right now to work with smelly stuff. The base I can do reasonably unoffensively, but the whole thing if I chose to strip it and go for the whole 9 yards, I think I will be evvicted.
So, the dilemma is - wait 'till spring/summer and do it outside with open garage, or just do the base and use Howards on the rest of it.
Seems to be a lot of scratches in it. If Howards covers it up then no problem. If not refinish it too. I was asking because if you are redoing the whole thing you can install the trim pieces then just do the whole cabinet at one time, if not then you could finish the trim and then install after its refinshed by itself.
Mike, here's how to fit your trim. Cut the miters on both side pieces but don't cut them to length yet. Next cut miters on both ends of the front piece but make sure you cut it a little long, maybe 1/4 inch or so. Now, fit the miter together on the left side holding tight to the cabinet on the front and side. Now, fit the miter together on the right side, the right won't touch the cabinet because the front piece is too long. Next, take another cut on the right front miter, cutting about one half the extra. Check the fit again and make another cut. When you get down to 1/16 inch or so, make very slight cuts only a few thousandths of an inch checking the fit each time. After you have a good fit on your miters, then you can cut the side pieces to length. Just don't try to cut the front trim to length the first cut, you will come up short every time.
It's a tough call Mike, and a lot of it depends on if you can tolerate some imperfections in an original finish. I'd clean it with some GO-JO or Goop (white/no pumice!) hand cleaner. If you use 0000 steel wool go very, very lightly, then wipe off with paper towels. You can use a soft toothbrush for all the hard to reach nooks and crannies.
Let it sit for about 3 days so the lanolin and stuff will dry off and then go at it with some dark Howards. If you're satisfied with those results apply some MinWax or Johnson's paste wood wax. If you're not satisfied then let it sit until spring when you can attack it with the garage doors open.
I personally like to save as much of the original finishes as possible, so I'd give that method a shot before stripping.
I think a minor challenge will be getting the new base to match the old cabinet, but it will just take some playing around with stain and toners to get it right.
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
John, Steve, Warren - thanks.
I will first separate the old base (I need probably to take the whole thing off as, as you remember, one side is a bit arching - need to refit it) and try GoJo (which I have a whole tubfull) and Howards as you suggested.
If it works, it works.
If not, come late spring I will be doing the full thing.
I am not worrying too much about the base trim matching perfectly - there is a different lighting on it and the front anyway due to the different light reflection angles.
I need to order Howards.
Where do you guys order it and do I need the darkest posisble or what several shades would you order if you were to do this cabinet? Dark walnut, medium walnut - what else?
If whether refinishing the complete cabinet or not, I would finish the base, at least through the toner coats before installing. That way, if you don't get a good color match, it would be easier to wipe off and try again.
Yikes. Is this the iPad's graphic behaving this way or are this pictures totally make the page unreadable on any computer?
Art,
nice job restoring it.
My problem is THE TOTAL lack of experience. I NEVER EVER grainfilled or lacqueered anything.
My total finishing experience consists of staining and then polyurethaning a door I bought in Home Depot. Which indeed does not require any skills whatsoever.
Sorry about the one HUGE pic. I learned patience on the restoration of my 90. The cabinet was de-laminated just like yours. You can see it sat in about 4" of water sometime before I acquired it. Take your time. A classic like that deserves it.
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